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Im not sure about the rock quality of the gear placements. As for moving the anchors down, I didn't mean that would change the rope in the crack problem. The rope being pulled into the crack is actually the only thing that slowed him down enough to keep him in one piece when he hit the deck.

Sorry Lurk, didn't realize this would be such a sensitive subject. I think the route is pretty cool. Im just glad that everyone involved is OK, it would suck if he had been hurt.

So, I wasn’t going to post about this because, admittedly, it is a little embarrassing to have to let the internet world know about a big fall and I don’t think it is good to dwell too long-count your blessings and move on. But since it has been brought up I thought I should write something. So here goes with a little photo illustration.
Gear did pull, in fact a piece even snapped, an old tcu that probably should have been retired, here is the pick, you’ll notice it’s the old smooth first generation type. The next pick is my rope, the sheath did pop but the *core* was fine, none of them strands broke thankfully.
As to the anchor discussion, I totally respect first ascent parties choice of where to place an anchor and do not really believe anyone has a right to go back and put some bolts anywhere else. With that said, I think an “Râ€

The rope pic is crazy.

The TCU pic is confusing...

It looks like just the trigger wire is snapped? That shouldn't have a single thing to do with the holding power of the unit. I climbed for years on cams that had only ducttape trigger wires.

Nuts may have been a better choice? I climbed it way before I owned more than 2 or 3 small cams, and I remember putting in alot of nuts... none of which seemed suspect at all.

I dunno. Fact is... glad you and everyone involved came out unscathed. Way to go for it!!

Niles, glad to hear you walked away injury free from such a fall. That neon green rope used to be so pretty.


Another good story for you!

It all brings up the question. How far above your last piece is "Run out" ,15 feet,20, 25, 30 ? I'm interested to hear the thoughts from Lurk or Mr. Day or BruiseBro. or anyone else that's been climbing since Noah's flood.

512OW wrote:The TCU pic is confusing...

It looks like just the trigger wire is snapped? That shouldn't have a single thing to do with the holding power of the unit. I climbed for years on cams that had only ducttape trigger wires.

It is confusing - First, did the snapped trigger wires have anything to do with the piece pulling? Second, how did the trigger wires snap?

Did that cam invert as it pulled out? That would explain how it pulled and possibly how the wires snapped.

Glad to hear you survived, man. That's some scary shit.

the only thing a bad trigger wire can do is break when you try to clean it and then fix the cam....

also i think that people that take the big fall should be the one to post on it. if he didnt want it on here then it should not be on here.

glad your okay Niles

way to cheat death, dude. I would agree that DT should prob get R rating. As I recall it is a ways up 10+ face to the top out (15 feet). Actually, as I think about it is a few moves of 10+ to easier ground - still ?15 feet? The rock up there is as good as any.

Being crusty and old I will give an opinion- you should retire that rope. The cam looks fine.

Since the FA approved it, I added an "R" to the route in the online guide.