pru, you are welcome. just keeping it real sister...keeping it real...
wes, you have wandered into the terrain of the unknown. let's use the latest dork wad example I witnessed...so this dude on sights to the fifth bolt, which is where the crux happens to be. at the crux, it takes him 8 tries before he finally susses the crux sequence. to be sure it is dialed, he stick clips thru it, and TR's the crap out of that 3 move sequence, ticking everything in site. he then continues to the chains, falling once more up high. in total, he weighted the rope nine times on this burn, but in his mind he considers it all "one try". he is a liar, but it works to prop up his ego.
he sends next time.
in the infamous, pschologically heavy world of building a sweet spray list, this punk will enter "2" as his number of tries. sad, but in the fragile world of sport climbers, listing too many "tries" will guarantee that you have to use the lime outhouse at miguel's instead of the indoor plumbing.
and now, to steal from Paul Harvey, the rest of the story.
this story is true, because this dude's name is pigsteak.
Tries?
This is pretty much what I do, though if it takes more then 2 "tries" I usually just don't record it, as that means I probably have spent time getting it ruthlessly wired.
SCIN wrote:I count a try as stepping off the ground into the first moves. If I can't remember how many times I've been on it then I don't record it.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
Sure, there are all of those things. But really, if you see one 5.12 as having 100 sends at 2 tries and another 5.12 having 100 sends at an average of 6 tries you can surely draw an obvious conclusion that the second route is more difficult.Meadows wrote: I think you need to factor in the date of the sends and the physical condition of the climber. Someone who sent Ro as a breakthrough .12 and then came back to Pine (and sends in 1-2 goes) after knocking off many other 12s doesn't necessarily give Ro a lower grade.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
Ray, please edit Pigsteak's number of tries from 2 to the more accurate 22. That is 1 for the actual send, plus 10 for the 9 falls, plus 11 for the toproping. Thank you.pigsteak wrote:pru, you are welcome. just keeping it real sister...keeping it real...
wes, you have wandered into the terrain of the unknown. let's use the latest dork wad example I witnessed...so this dude on sights to the fifth bolt, which is where the crux happens to be. at the crux, it takes him 8 tries before he finally susses the crux sequence. to be sure it is dialed, he stick clips thru it, and TR's the crap out of that 3 move sequence, ticking everything in site. he then continues to the chains, falling once more up high. in total, he weighted the rope nine times on this burn, but in his mind he considers it all "one try". he is a liar, but it works to prop up his ego.
he sends next time.
in the infamous, pschologically heavy world of building a sweet spray list, this punk will enter "2" as his number of tries. sad, but in the fragile world of sport climbers, listing too many "tries" will guarantee that you have to use the lime outhouse at miguel's instead of the indoor plumbing.
and now, to steal from Paul Harvey, the rest of the story.
this story is true, because this dude's name is pigsteak.
That would be true if these sport wankers weren't all lying.SCIN wrote: Sure, there are all of those things. But really, if you see one 5.12 as having 100 sends at 2 tries and another 5.12 having 100 sends at an average of 6 tries you can surely draw an obvious conclusion that the second route is more difficult.
saying it is different styles....if people come to the red in enduro shape, then routes with a defined crux may feel hard, and hence, take more tries. and vice versa...
there is no theory to be had from gathering all these numbers einstein...
(but yes, enduro routes suck ass...and are very easy to onsight.)
there is no theory to be had from gathering all these numbers einstein...
(but yes, enduro routes suck ass...and are very easy to onsight.)
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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For me I only record tries if I either had the FA/onsight/flash (1 try) or if I redpoint on the second go (2 tries). If I have to work a route to get the redpoint the number of tries is meaningless to me.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh