misuse of gear

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
john e aragon
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Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 7:45 pm

Post by john e aragon »

Replace their gear and use it for the next 20 years or so. Sounds to me like these guys are looney tunes. I hang on my gear aid climbing, take big whippers on it (not on purpose), and build topropes for all my friends to use in undeveloped areas. I have never retired a piece of pro in 12 years (not counting slings and webbing). Manufactures build that shit strong so they don't get sued!
because i can
512OW
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Post by 512OW »

Just tell him he's an idiot, confiscate his gear, and put it to use.
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

So the class was a good investment wasn't it? You learn alot about what to do and what not to do.Take some falls, rope management, gear placements, building anchors.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Gaar
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Post by Gaar »

I walked up to people I didnt even know at the creek and asked if I could use there gear if need...they didnt even care.....and I lent mine out to random people as well....


It should be expected that if you lend your gear it is going to get used!!! why else would you lend it?!?

Sounds like they were wankers
"climb, fall, send, go home"
L K Day
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Post by L K Day »

Us old time tards were always pooling our gear for a route, especially for a wall where you needed lots of stuff, or for a route where you needed doubles or triples of a particular piece. That said, I don't think I ever borrowed a rack, or loaned one out. I mean there is a small but real risk that you could lose the whole thing, either by getting routed on a big climb and leaving it all behind as rap anchors, dropping the rack from 600 feet up, or having it stolen from the car. Still, the stuff is made to be used. If what's borrowed is returned in good condition, all is well. If a piece is seriously kinked, a wire is frayed, or a cam is flattened, replace it. If the gear was returned in good condition your benefactor is over reacting.
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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak »

Josephine..I'll loan you some bolts I installed for my own use on some sport routes at the red...just don't fall on them.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
rockman
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Post by rockman »

Completely silly.
"My Shit is Fucked Up." --Warren Zevon and Terry Kindred.
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ReachHigh
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Post by ReachHigh »

I'd be pissed if the gear was actually damaged, but otherwise whats a few more scratches on my nuts.
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dipsi
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Post by dipsi »

ReachHigh wrote:I'd be pissed if the gear was actually damaged, but otherwise whats a few more scratches on my nuts.
Nah.....too easy!

:oops:
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B.J.
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Post by B.J. »

OK, as the person who owns the gear Josie borrowed, I guess it's time for me to voice my side of the issue.

First, Josie's first post is misleading in that it implies that I'm upset about her falling on my gear. This is not entirely true as it oversimplifies the issue. While, I freely admit that I am a nOOb "tard" climber (thank you, Wes :oops:), I consider myself smart enough to comprehend how gear works and why. So, yes, I know that trad gear is intended to be used and I know that gear can, does, and is intended to hold lead falls. The point that many of you seem to be missing, and the fundamental issue that upsets/disappoints me, is that I feel as though trad gear is there for when you need it (i.e. you peel), not for when you just feel like taking falls (i.e. "Hey, I'm just gonna take a fall now -- whoopee!"). Why stress the gear unnecessarily? To me, this falls under the category of "abuse" rather than "use."

Josie's second post, seems to at least acknowledge my true concerns:
Josephine wrote:i think the concern was the intent - not that it happened. as in i MEANT to fall on the gear - not i accidentally came off and took a fall. I dunno - I'm still learning in this category, and now I know to ask more questions.
But I have yet to read a response that address the intent of the fall and not just the occurrence of one.

Second, while I'm glad Josie learned what it is like to fall on gear (lord knows I need to man up, grow a pair, and do the same), I just think that if one wants to fall intentionally, they should do it with their own gear. I think that's just a matter of respect and consideration for the well-being of the owner's gear. And, yes, Josie graciously offered to replace the gear but damage (which was unnoticeable) and compensation (which is not necessary or warranted) are, in this case, beside the point.

Third, I think this all just boils down to poor communication. One, if I were at Red Rocks with her, we wouldn't be having this discussion at all. Two, if Josie had informed me of her intent ahead of time, we could have discussed this issue, and our respective responsibilities and expectations. But that didn't happen, and, as I told her in my "Very Stern Reprimand," (her words, not mine) I blame myself for that lack of communication. I don't feel as though she knew she should have told me, and at the same time I didn't think about telling her. Seeing as how I am ultimately responsible for my own gear, I should have told her what my feelings were.

Finally, it's quite possible that I simply overreacted to this situation, however I know some rather experienced climbers who tend to agree with my position. On the other hand, I, too, am still learning the ins-and-outs of climber etiquette and ethics and would appreciate your input. Are my feelings justified/understandable or am I just being silly? To be honest, I think it's probably a bit of both :oops: .
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