RRC Archives

The crux on ro is really just all about the heel hook placement in my opinion. But in order to send you have to have tons of endurance, especially if you're a big guy.

I suggest finding some overhanging jug haul and running laps on it for training. Artificial or man-made should make no difference. Just keep going up and down jugs.

Shamis wrote:The crux on ro is really just all about the heel hook placement in my opinion. But in order to send you have to have tons of endurance, especially if you're a big guy.

I suggest finding some overhanging jug haul and running laps on it for training. Artificial or man-made should make no difference. Just keep going up and down jugs.

I've seen the crux on Ro done literally seven or eight different ways, so in part you've got to get up there and find your own beta for the crux. Pretty much the rest of it is endurance, so climb, climb, climb, train, train, train. The above advice sounds good. I've had good luck with using a stop watch and bouldering on an overhanging jug wall for as long as I could (starting at 1min 30seconds and working up from there) with 2-4 min rest between laps. (plus if you boost your endurnace and power-endurance, you'll kick ass on most climbs at the Red)

As for Lip Service - i'm going to have to check that out!

ro isn't about the crux it is about endurance and rythem. just climb a lot of steep routes to build a base focusing and moveing steadily but not fast and with a rythym based around pulling harding on the steeper sections and relaxing on the easier sections. work on breathing and finding rests.

and work your routes, memorize them, find the rests, relax your grip and you will send.

Power is key but I'm 5'6 and had no prob w/ the moves the issue is learning to de-pump you can be killer strong but you'll get no where if you can't come back from being pumped Climb smarter not just stronger. do laps get tired very tired and then have your body become conditioned to come back and depump

when I finally got it I was pumped out of my mind at the shuts could not clip them I had to hang on and de-pump staring at the shuts took a couple of minutes to get the power back but relaxing and breathing got me through it

why not faast????

I seem to remember reading an article a while back about endurance training for overhanging routes. They recommended laps on EASY routes. Specifically, if you're pumped at all, it's too hard. The idea was that when you start to feel the burn you've already switched your metabolism in those muscles to the much more inefficient anaerobic pathway. By doing sustained moved on easy routes you could stay in the aerobic pathway. Does anyone have any experience trying this?

Best training is power endurance bouldering. Then as you do routes, you will build the fitness you need. Think of it as training for a 400 meter run. Running marathons might help, but running uphill sprints will help more.

Here's an article that might align with what the last two posts said (it's about lactic acid being your friend rather than your foe).

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/05/16/healt ... a6&ei=5090

A google search will five you a plethora of articles of the like.

Wes wrote:Best training is power endurance bouldering.

4x4's are the way to go!