RRC Archives

I think the captain is on to it. Having both endurance and power peak at the same time is very difficult. The more power you get and work at, the less raw endurance you will have and vs versa. For now, just try changing up one power workout with an endurance workout and see what happens. If you are able to finish the route from the crux without getting wicked pumped then you'll know what's up. Remember, power/boudering crux section are not always just about not having enough power at that moment but more about just remembering and teaching your body how to do the ticks to stick the move.

IMO most seasoned route climbers spend too much time training power and thus lack the true fitness it takes to do long hard routes....at the Red.

Yea, over training could be an issue I think. Well, not really over training but lack of rest. I haven't taken two days in a row off for about a month. I just feel like if I was over trained or tired then the power move would have been more difficult.

Well your ability and experience is well past mine, but I have fought that same senerio. I have been climbing at my best here late and I've been adding creatine(sp) and mitochondia(sp) to my diet. They have sped up recovery times and increased overall endurance.
I also cut way back on lifting when doing a lot of climbing. Usually just run and do hangboard excersies.

Anyway hope I can be of some help.

i've quit trying to find any linear type relation between all these factors, even the psychology of 'expectation' (ie sending from the crux 2nd to top)
versus 'visualization' can distort what i take to be my physical base. mix in cross training and skill specific versus core conditioning and i'd just rather be thinking about girls.

ix-nay on the creatine-ay: http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training%20 ... tine.shtml

captain static wrote:ix-nay on the creatine-ay: http://www.nicros.com/New%20Training%20 ... tine.shtml

I agree if you use it how they tell you too. But In smaller doses I believe it feeds the starving muscle. Speeding up your recovery time. I've only been using since about the last week in Oct.
It tells you to take 6 pills a day. I started with 6 every other day noticed a slight increase in weight ruffly. so I cut to 6 every 3 days.

I could just be at a peak, but I've been a runner most of my life and have never had such fast recovery times.

Doesn't creatine cause your muscles to retain water thereby adding unnecessary weight to your body?

Just don't let go!

Or maybe it is your body telling you that spurt climbing season is over, and it is now time for PURE CLIMBING!

SCIN wrote:Doesn't creatine cause your muscles to retain water thereby adding unnecessary weight to your body?

Since most climbers under hydrate, that might not be such a bad thing.

SCIN wrote:Doesn't creatine cause your muscles to retain water thereby adding unnecessary weight to your body?

Per the info Captain static provided it does. But I couldn't imagine your body retaining so much water that it would hender climbing. I think using it in small doses would provide more help than hurt. Its twenty bucks cut the dosage in a 3rd and see what it does.