RRC Archives

Stewy911 wrote: If it has not been done we are calling it "Shudda Known Better, 5.7R"

Description: Locate this crack 30 feet left of "On the Prowl". Climb ramp, with no protection, to obvious tree before the crack starts. Watch out for the meteor size boulder that rest on that tree. Its one huge MUD ball. Sling the tree and maneuver your way around the tree and on top of the boulder where you get your first piece of gear in. Climb dihedral on soft rock until you reach a ledge. Traverse right 20 feet to anchors. 65 feet

Sounds classic. I don't see how it could have possibly gone unnoticed.

We had considered climbing that crack to access the top of the cliff, but we decided against it because of the rock quality and lack of protection. Instead I bushwhacked to the top of the cliff and scrambled around an exposed ledge to a spot where I could place anchors to reach the arete "On the Prowl". I figured that the upper anchors would be a good place to end the crack climb and we thought about returning to add a bolt or two, clean up the suspect rock, and make it a mixed route. Anyway, the holiday season arrived and I never got back there. I really wasn't in much of a hurry to finish it and I had secretly hoped that somebody else would do it since I had my eyes on another route.

Congratulations on what is probably an FA. Did you guys enjoy "On the Prowl"?

On the Prowl was a great line. Very enjoyable, techy slab with a great view from above.

Thanks Jared

It is not an FA unless you mention piggie , rpron, wes, blake, and sigh....I guess RRO. (yuk)..there are no two person FA's allowed anymore.

per rockman, all routes must be rated 5.9 or 5.12a...no exceptions. thank you for taking the time to fill in the 13 page questionnaire and truthfulness litmus test as to the veracity and difficulty of this choss pile.

unless you added stainless steel anchors with 5 inch glue ins, there will be no FA recorded.
all lichen must be deposited at the Shell gas staion, and weighed for purity and cough inducing material. should it be found to be lacking in slim factor, the "R" will be removed from the rating.

no other lines may be established until the ethics police board has determined that your rating is within the guidelines set forth in clause 6A of the route developers handbook, which can be checked out at RRO or Miguel's, but only during prime spray season, which falls between 60 per cent humidity and any college break weekend.

any trails established to the left of jared's arete must be Access Fund certified, which will require a $50 deposit in my personal account.

any other questions or queries may be directed to the choss monster, RRO, who will gladly proclaim your route to be a classic worthy of much self flagellation.

PS- enjoy the fame

pork rules

ynot wrote:Good luck with it but trust me,5.7r isn't hard to find. happens to me every time I get off route.

Coffee came out of my nose when I read this. Di and I were bushwacking last weekend and kept seeing manky, mossy, filthy cracks full of trees and bushes and kept saying, "Oh, that looks like a ynot route!"

I'm less inclined to climb just anything these days.

ynot is a closet sportie now..he told me as much in a drunken stupor, that he loves to clip shiny thingies to other shiny thingies....
I can only assume he meant sport routes

yeah... that's the way you do it. make your living hanging sport clip draws. That aint workin.

if it aint dirty and flowing with water...i dont want to climb it.