Todd Skinner
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- Posts: 567
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:16 pm
It appears that the belay loop snapped - apparently his harness was worn pretty bad.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f ... LIMBER.TMP
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f ... LIMBER.TMP
Shedding off one more layer of skin
Keeping one step ahead of the persecutor within
Keeping one step ahead of the persecutor within
Damn it! I never liked the move away from the old style pure tie in harnesses. No belay loop to worry about, no buckle to worry about. With the old style harnesses, critical points could be massivey overbuilt, lots of real estate allowed lots of stiches. Such area does not exist on belay loops, and wear is concentrated on a small area that is not replaceable without replacing the entire harness. The tie in point on old style harnesses was a doubled piece of 1" tubular webbing which you routinely replaced. You belayed from the loop of climbing rope at your tie in. You did have to make sure you got two knots right, your harness knot, and your rope.
For sure it's arguable which style is safer. If you can't tie a knot, the old style is no good for you. But if you can't get your knots right, every time, you have no business climbing. I do think the current harness designs are all about convenience, not about safety.
Above comments pertain purely to rock climbing. For high altitude or winter mountaineering I believe buckled harnesses are safer. And of course the risk of equipment failure is reduced considerably if you replace your gear regularly. Of course we know climbers don't.
For sure it's arguable which style is safer. If you can't tie a knot, the old style is no good for you. But if you can't get your knots right, every time, you have no business climbing. I do think the current harness designs are all about convenience, not about safety.
Above comments pertain purely to rock climbing. For high altitude or winter mountaineering I believe buckled harnesses are safer. And of course the risk of equipment failure is reduced considerably if you replace your gear regularly. Of course we know climbers don't.