RRC Archives

tradmill is really fun. if you have climbers that cant climb a little weird start 5.7 trad then make sure you keep directionals clipped for each tr burn.

Tradmill is a nice climb....RRO introduced me to it. You get some feeling of exposure as you go around the bulge even though you're not very far off the ground. It might be a little weird to TR it, though, since it slants left most of the way. You'll definitely need directionals to avoid a big pendulum. Ditto the wierd start....especially if you're short (a subtle detail that Tackett couldn't possibly appreciate!!).

ewaaser wrote:Tradmill is a nice climb....RRO introduced me to it. You'll definitely need directionals to avoid a big pendulum. Ditto the wierd start....especially if you're short (a subtle detail that Tackett couldn't possibly appreciate!!).

Well, I'm a giant 5'7", so I shouldn't have any trouble with being short.

As for the directionals and big pendulum, have you ever climbed The Offering at Bruise Brothers? That does the same thing, angling out and up, giving the feeling of much more exposure than is really there. It's a fun sport climb.

Tom

Yep, done The Offering. Tradmill is similar, just no bolts and a wierd start.

200 feet to climbers' right of the Washboard Wall in the Joe Ponder Hollow of Muir Valley is the Practice Wall. Here you can set up a top belay, if you wish. There are two extra sets of anchors on the ledge designed for AMGA top belaying instruction. Many beginners find it less intimidating climbing toward their belayer rather than away from him. Plus, it allows for better coaching of gumbies from above where the belayer has a better view of the holds. And, of course you can also do a bottom belay there if that is your preference. There are several soft, short sport lines at the Practice Wall. Do a search on the online route guide at http://www.muirvalley.com

If you would like to set up a toprope climb on a soft trad line, there is always "Go West" at Slab City (formerly the West Wall) up the Valley floor road, just past the Solarium. This is 5.7ish and popular with beginners.

Liz

Liz_Weber wrote:200 feet to climbers' right of the Washboard Wall in the Joe Ponder Hollow of Muir Valley is the Practice Wall. Here you can set up a top belay, if you wish. There are two extra sets of anchors on the ledge designed for AMGA top belaying instruction. Many beginners find it less intimidating climbing toward their belayer rather than away from him. Plus, it allows for better coaching of gumbies from above where the belayer has a better view of the holds. And, of course you can also do a bottom belay there if that is your preference. There are several soft, short sport lines at the Practice Wall. Do a search on the online route guide at http://www.muirvalley.com

If you would like to set up a toprope climb on a soft trad line, there is always "Go West" at Slab City (formerly the West Wall) up the Valley floor road, just past the Solarium. This is 5.7ish and popular with beginners.

Liz

Thanks Liz, all good advice. I've been to Muir, but not back to the Practice Wall. We will definitely make a trip over there.

Tom

Go West is a sweet line.

ynot wrote:Go West is a sweet line.

Yes, Ynot has drug me up that line this year, very fun indeed!!!!!

Apparently ynot been eatin' his Wheaties!