RRC Archives

Practice Wall for sure!

merrick wrote:maybe if I fourth or fifth or sixth the muir suggestion the original poster will finnally believe the first response. becuase i suspect that they won't belive anything said on this board until at least 5 people verify that the info is accurate.

that's because climbers build concensus

practice wall is a little short (~25), and not that great climbing IMO, i take lots of beginners from my college and i find they have WAY more fun going strait to Bruisebros wall and doing everything .10 and under there. if you bring a super light trad rack (stoppers and maybe 3 cams) you can also put up two more easy mixed routes.

I have to agree with Eureka being a great route and worth the hike. I took a new climber there and he just loved the route.

Muir and roadside seem to be the best. I've been having to do the same with my girlfriend who is also a noob.

The stuff on the right side of roadside is really great for begginers. And there are several good 7's and 8's at rebel camp in muir that are good too. I haven't been to bruise brothers yet, but I'll definitely check that out.

Bruisebrothers is in Rebel Camp. Rebel Camp is the region, Bruisebrothers is the name of the wall. Definately a good place to go, however. There are also some really good moderate 10's there. Good first 5.10 lead there is Rat Stew.

Rat Stew was good, just watch the lose rock on that wall. I pulled a large chunk of rock off of rat stew just last week. Luckly I was able to hold onto it so that it didn't hit my belayer, but still a little discomforting. And the top of the 10d on bruise brothers was a real horror show. Lots of nice stuff to kick/pull off onto you're belayer and several nice big death flakes. Not familiar enough with the area to really say just how dangerous they are, but based on what I've done so far at the red I'd so something up there will fall down in the next 5 years, something big.

Thank you for the warning regarding loose rock in MV. Responsible route developers throughout the Red check for and remove loose rock when a new route is developed. Likewise, responsible climbers can help by removing or marking (chalk "X") new loose rock as they discover it and notifying the responsible party.

One of the inherent dangers in climbing outdoors is that rock is sometimes unpredictable, and changes occur as a result of nature, especially in the sandstone in this area with freezing and thawing.

I don't like wearing helmets either, but if you feel you are putting your belayer at risk, they're always an option.

Liz Weber