RRC Archives

Paul, I don't claim it to be a rule, but more of a generalized observation particularly with regards to TR and Aid versus Free climbing. I am just, perhaps feebly, attempting to rationalize the logic behind 'upgrading' FAs. Either way I find it a likable idea.

Pigsteak, you can red tag it and keep it closed as long as you want...but another generalized observation is that not everyone respects the value of a red tagged route.

well mcrib,, I do have a small problem with that. I would like to know the local definition of FA, lest I be accused of "lying" about a send. If most think an FA means a person lead the route clean, no falls, then I wish to abide by that ethic. it just may take longer to open a line.

we can't have 13 different definitions of FA, can we?

So I can rename free soloed routes? Ok, all the routes at the practice wall at Muir are hereby named Rick is Sexy 1, Rick is Sexy 2, etc, unless of course they have already been free soloed, in which case I did them naked, without chalk, while on fire, and singing showtunes.

i think the renaming only applies when the style changes from aid to free and thats it.

If TR counts as FA, then the other line I bolted at sore heel, and the line that Sandy and Tina are going to bolt this weekend need to have Richard Strange as fa, as he TR flashed both. The non-pc truth is that tr does not count. Period. I think allowing the bolter the honor of naming a route is a good thing, but still is at the discrection of the person who sent it first, and not on tr.

I have always thought that next to the FAist, there should be a line that says author or equiper, and the person that bolted the route would be recognized for all the hard work they put into the route.

I also think (although it doesn't follow tradition) that the person who put the steal in the wall should be allowed to name the route. This can open routes up quicker, since sometimes the alternative is for the author of the route to red tag the route for the next 5 years.

Disrespecting red tags is wrong. Period.

mcrib wrote: You put the work in so its your route.

This needed emphasis.

pigsteak wrote: ...old lines in Yosemite always had two people....

I don't know how to compare fa's then and now. So much of what goes up now there is no 'discovery'. It's like comparing Magellen with some sucker in the Oklahoma Land Rush grabing a pre-staked off land parcel. Or maybe shooting a lion in 1800's Africa and shooting one on a farm in Texas from the moon roof. Sometimes you even have to belong to a club. If it rewards them for their effort or their expenditures ok i guess.

so Wes, you are saying that the FA gets the final say as to the name as well? I TR it, Ray leads it, and he gets to decide if my original name sticks?

pigsteak wrote:so Wes, you are saying that the FA gets the final say as to the name as well? I TR it, Ray leads it, and he gets to decide if my original name sticks?

Yep. But, reasonable people will respect the work of the bolter.