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Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 1:18 am
by flashmaster
or Whitney Guns
Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 4:19 pm
by steep4me
Motherlode has lots of 12's and most are not reachy--try Tuna Town, Ale-8-one, Chainsaw, Kick Me in the Jimmy.
Oh...and try Mercy the Huff at Left Flank and Gung Ho & Tissue Tiger and Reliquery (sp?) at Military. Also, all the 12's at the "12" wall at Torrent--especially Bare Metal Teen. Twinkie at Phantasia too. Like everyone says--most routes at the red will not stop you due to being short. I am 5'3"--and if I can't send a route, it's usually because I do not have enough endurance--not because I am too short.
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 12:29 am
by Cliff Heindel
not sure i'd agree about reliquary and bare metal.
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 2:12 pm
by Wes
flashmaster wrote:or Whitney Guns
Or Jen V.
While I have only been shut down because of reach on a couple routes (dogleg, buff the wood), I sometimes find I am too short for the guy beta, yet not strong enough (esp. on crimps) for the "girl beta" On just about every route, there is a way around any really reachy sections. Sometimes reaching the starting holds is tough for the less tall people.
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 2:46 pm
by steep4me
Cliff Heindel wrote:not sure i'd agree about reliquary and bare metal.
I have not been on reliquery, but I have seen many short girls climb it. As for Bare metal Teen, there's not a reachy move on the entire route. So...how come you don't agree? If a person who is 5'3 and has a negative ape index of 2 can do the moves, then I doubt it is reachy.
I'd be interested to hear your reasoning.
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 4:38 pm
by Cliff Heindel
[i'm guessin that any posts i make on threads about 5.12 climbs should come with a disclaimer, something like 'i suck']
yo-not much reasoning, just limited experience. these climbs are at my limit so... the knee bar up high on reliquary to reach the large sloping ledge seemed long when i tried it. probably many sequences i didn't explore, down low too there were two options both seemed long: reach faarr left to good hold or way up and deep to a good right-..as for bare metal what looks to be a long reach to a right facing hold about bolt 4 or 5 (kinda coming up over the sloping shelf just under halfway)
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 4:41 pm
by kafish2
I would have to say i did not feel reliquary, bare metal, or buffo the wood were height dependent. But then again I'm 5'4 which may put me in a taller category than a Whitney or Jen ( tall for maybe the first time in my life!)
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 4:56 pm
by Stewy911
Dogleg is the only route where height plays a factor. Im 5'11 and the moves on dogleg seems so freaking long....other than this route I havent been on another route where height plays a factor.
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2006 11:54 pm
by steep4me
Cliff Heindel wrote:[i'm guessin that any posts i make on threads about 5.12 climbs should come with a disclaimer, something like 'i suck']
yo-not much reasoning, just limited experience. these climbs are at my limit so... the knee bar up high on reliquary to reach the large sloping ledge seemed long when i tried it. probably many sequences i didn't explore, down low too there were two options both seemed long: reach faarr left to good hold or way up and deep to a good right-..as for bare metal what looks to be a long reach to a right facing hold about bolt 4 or 5 (kinda coming up over the sloping shelf just under halfway)
You don't suck--you just need better beta. After you are at the slopey shelf on bare metal, stay low on it, traverse slightly left to a left reach to spook eyes, go up to the good right facing scoop and cross through left to clip the bolt above the slopey shelf. The clip will be at your knee. It's not too bad that way.
Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 1:19 am
by Andrew
John Shrader is short, so is Greg K. Being tall is a disadvantage, trust me. I thougth that hugh had some scientific proof to back up this theory.