Even though doubling draws is a quick and easy way (and/or lazy) to clip to an anchor, metal on metal is a well known hazard in climbing for many reasons. I do it occasionally but don't prefer to nor do I feel completely safe doing so. It's only when I'm too lazy to use the recommended way (slings, daisy, etc.). I think people who come from more traditional climbing backgrounds tend to feel this way. I started with sport but was informed early on to use slings...probably because my partner at the time was a trad climber. I have memories of being scolded by fellow climbers for creating metal-on-metal setups. I guess it comes down to knowing both sides and doing what makes you feel comfortable.Meadows wrote:Ever hear of doubling the draws? Oh, that's right ... you don't climb sport.dhoyne wrote:Quickdraws are to short to clip yourself to the anchor most times anyways; that's why just about everyone I've climbed with uses slings, daisy chains, or Metolius PAS.
A Variety of Things Can Go Wrong at An Anchor
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
I do climb sport. I was just taught that metal on metal and unnecessarily complicated anchors are bad things. It's cumbersome to clip 2-3 draws together (especially if you clip into the dogbones to avoid the metal-metal). Double that (you do use redundancy, right?) and you now need four to six draws just to anchor yourself to the wall.
I'll stick with the girth hitched slings and lockers I use. They're never gotten in the way, I can't drop them, and I don't have to spend time chaining them together (then spending more time unchaining them and reorganizing them -- what a PIA for multipitch, or even general throughput).
I'm really not concerned about the 0.1% extra weight I'm carrying for two slings and two lockers.
I'll stick with the girth hitched slings and lockers I use. They're never gotten in the way, I can't drop them, and I don't have to spend time chaining them together (then spending more time unchaining them and reorganizing them -- what a PIA for multipitch, or even general throughput).
I'm really not concerned about the 0.1% extra weight I'm carrying for two slings and two lockers.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
Remember the thread about how you know when you are not a gumby anymore? I think you are not a gumby anymore when you learn how to link two draws together without linking them biner to biner and when you stop using the "sling&lockers / jesus sling" and just use regular quick draws. Good job Meadows...you are no longer a gumby! How does it feel?Meadows wrote:I never link the draws that way - I link them through the dogbones as you would for a "cheater draw," except leave the extra biner there (or if preferred, take it off). I own slings and lockers specifically for cleaning, but found they were more of pain than anything.
I have never in my 11 years of sport climbing ever needed to use any more than three quick draws to clean an anchor. That means I take one draw with me when I clean. Two already on the anchors plus my one make three.
Last edited by rhunt on Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's all personal preference - I don't find it cumbersome and I do make them redundant. I tried to find different ways to make slings more comfy (tied to me, through the legs and clipped in the back), if I ever remembered to bring them.dhoyne wrote: I was just taught that metal on metal and unnecessarily complicated anchors are bad things. It's cumbersome to clip 2-3 draws together (especially if you clip into the dogbones to avoid the metal-metal).
I'll stick with the girth hitched slings and lockers I use.
I'm really not concerned about the 0.1% extra weight I'm carrying for two slings and two lockers.