RRC Archives

Why is there such a problem with loose bolts and or bolts pulling out at Muir?
We visisted the Solarium this past week and we told of 2 bolts pulling on routes there. It seems this is becoming a serious problem in Muir.

Blake and I were at Rebel Camp yesterday. When Blake did this route he noticed the roof bolt was very loose. He tighten it about 5 turns with his fingers and proceeded to send. The bolt above the roof was also loose. The hanger had turned in such a way as to cause the nose of biner to be loaded against the rock. Not good! On my go I took my wrench and fixed the pitch.
Another disturbing thing at this wall was that most of the quick links on the anchors were not tight. Most had numerous threads showing. One was completely unscrewed. They apparently had never been properly tighten during installation! At least four people had climbed these routes before us and had not even noticed. Someone is going to get hurt in the valley!

Hey Terry, why don't you take your own advice and contact the developers or send them a pm first? You advocate this and it is a great idea yet it was not done because you would rather stir up shit.

Is it OK that proper work is not being done by others?

bentley wrote:Why is there such a problem with loose bolts and or bolts pulling out at Muir?
We visisted the Solarium this past week and we told of 2 bolts pulling on routes there. It seems this is becoming a serious problem in Muir.

Climb trad, or give thanks that someone donated the money and time to set up the route in the first place. A simple email to any of the route setters to notify them is sufficient. Insulting the route setters by claiming that people are going to get hurt on their routes gets nothing done besides spreading panic.

I for one am grateful for all the hard work, time, and finances donated to those that are developing Muir Valley.

Climb trad, or give thanks that someone donated the money and time to set up the route in the first place. A simple email to any of the route setters to notify them is sufficient. Insulting the route setters by claiming that people are going to get hurt on their routes gets nothing done besides spreading panic.

I for one am grateful for all the hard work, time, and finances donated to those that are developing Muir Valley.

Explain to me how an immediate public notification of a very clear and present danger is insulting. This is a public notification by Terry Kindred "route setter" and fixer of routes: If anyone anywhere at anytime finds a loose bolt on a Team Suck route feel free to tighten it if you are in possession of this basic skill, if not, find someone who is. If all that fails make a public statement. I, nor any of my fellow "route setters" will be insulted.

Terry Kindred

You know getting things accomplished at the Red is so frustrating because of comments like that! It is a pissing match up there! Go climb trad, what a lame comment and far from a solution! I am simply making an observation that there are hundreds of routes at the Red where this has not been a problem. Now low and behold the Weber’s have been beyond accommodating to allow us to climb on their amazing piece of property and unsafe situations are popping up all over the place.

I was not insulting anyone, thought that was pretty clear. Perhaps their needs to be a little panic spread around up there. I see blind faith in old crap gear every weekend at the Red, someone is going to get hurt and I am doing my part to make sure that does not happen.

As a matter a fact go take a look in Red River Outdoors bathroom, there is an old shut from Convicted on the wall. I watched a girl lower off of that shut right before I removed it.

I will post some pictures of more such time bombs later.

I am sure there will now be even more useless slander on this topic but do everyone a favor and do something productive like tighen a bolt or spread the word about the PMRP and how we stand to loose that amazing area if we don't have the cash.

Very well said Mr. Bentley! Do you think that some of us less than PC people need to attend a clinic on how to make people feel all warm and fuzzy concerning these safety issues? Gee Mr./Ms./Mrs. route setter, I am not sure of your sexual orientation, but there are some very loose bolts, not that there is anything wrong with loose bolts, on most of your routes. Would it be gay of me to ask you to fix them?
Hey, I like the sound of the new me. Bentley, won't you join me!

This is Liz on Rick’s ID.

Thank you Wilkes86. Rick and I appreciate all responsible input and notification of any potential problems at Muir Valley. This helps us minimize risks of outdoor climbing (an inherently risky sport, as compared to gym climbing) at Muir Valley.

Rick is unavailable for the next few hours. When he returns and sees the above postings, he will respond appropriately.

In the meantime, our paramount concern remains minimizing risks to our guests at Muir. Until the situation can be properly assessed and addressed, climbing is officially temporarily suspended at Muir Valley.

I’d like to assure our enthusiastic guests and loyal supporters that Rick will address this issue as quickly as he can, so that the duration of the suspension will be as brief as possible.

Liz Weber
Muir Valley Owner

case and point