cherry red repeat

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 3:51 pm

5.13 is the new 5.12
V12 is the new V10

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 4:11 pm

Yo Pig- I know it is on off limits land, but Skeletor is still open, and so is 50 Words for Pump ( which is not off limits). Someone could fix the two squeeze jobs to the right of God's Own Stone and make them one route- that would be another 5.14.
And would someone please bolt the route that starts off the ground just at the base of the ramp (just to the right of American Dream and to the left of The Return of Darth Moll) at the Dark Side. It is 5.14 + all day long.
What about Kenny's future-line at Purgatory. Is it open? What about the line to the right of Purty Mouth ? (not the one that is bolted just to the lefft of Katy Brown, but the one that starts off the block that Purty Mouth starts off of. I think it goes.
That might keep these kids busy for a weekend.

Post by **Andrew** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:00 pm

Lurkist is right. There are plenty of hard undone lines at the red. I for one want to see some of these sick kids get on skeletor, the open line at purgatory, and fifty words for pump. You could easily get on skeletor and skeletor only without anyone knowing as long as you park at the rrgcc parking lot and use the super old trail.(Please don't actually do this) I think someone needs to tell these kids about these lines.

Post by **allah** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:25 pm

there all to scared to get on any of those lines, cause it will take them to long to do. Lucifer at Purgatory is open although i do need to fix a few bolts on it to make them easier to clip

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 5:32 pm

I think that when there are more 5.14 lines here they will probably be more attracted to the Red. I mean, if you're onsiting 5.14 then why would you go to a place with only a few lines at your level?

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 6:02 pm

just tell them that Dave Hume could only do maybe five moves on Skeletor, and see if that piques their interest.

Post by **Andrew** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 6:30 pm

Tell us a story about Skeletor Lurkist.

By the way, no one outside of the red knows that there are really good looking super hard lines. They just think there are a few 14 and 13D jug hauls, and that doesn't sound to inspriring to alot of people. Alot of the super hard looking undone lines aren't that overhanging. example: Lucifer, Skeletor, thing left of Take that Katie Brown, Thing left of doglegg at bob marley, thing left of purdy mouth at lode, unbolted thing near cherry red. All of these look like they are extremely technical and have super hard boulder problem moves. they are all beautiful too.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:22 pm

There's a page in the guidebook indicating all of the undone sick things. Maybe after some people see that they'll reconsider a visit to kentuck. Or maybe we should all start eating whatever Andrew, Ben, and Ramsey eat so we can put up 5.14 lines?

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:28 pm

I bolted Skeletor back in 98? (When Oil Crack was getting developed- Uncle Jed's, et al).
I took three days to place five bolts. I jugged up and down it time and again scoping it in minutia to figure out clipping.
I finally finished it, left the rope hanging for a week or two, went back up it and decided that while I knew the route went, I knew I would never do it (which was not unique to several routes I bolted, all of which remained bolted and done by someone else- mostly Dave Hume). Further I knew of no one who could possibly or conceivably do it, including Dave and James Litz, who I knew as well. So I removed the bolts, the only route I have ever done that too.
Chris Martin heard my spray about this incredible vision line, and he took a look, and put the bolts back in to leave as an open proj, to tempt some young punk vain enough to think they could do it.
So far, I know of only two folks who have tried it. James and Dave.

Post by **the lurkist** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:36 pm

The line that is off-the-scale-bad-to-the-bone is the line up at
The Dark Side. Just to the left of Darth Moll starting at the base of the ramp. Check it out. Several folks don't think it goes.
I am confident that it does. Discrete 1 and 2 finger pockets that look like freckles on the rock. I am sure it will remain unbolted for years (despite me turning several hard climbing dudes in the Red on to it)
At some point in a few years (after no one else has bolted it), I will do it and then leave a fat ass red tag on it and and then watch how fast some one gets on it.