To Plunge or Not to Plunge...

Post by **ynot** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 11:18 pm

So if you always run out of slings on lead how are you going to build an anchor with slings? thats why I say get a cordalette.

Post by **ewaaser** » Fri Feb 17, 2006 11:24 pm

Yeah, don't you love that "I'm close to the top in a hard section and all the gear I need to place is somewhere about 50 ft below me" feeling..........

Post by **john e aragon** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 12:20 am

you get what you pay for. this applies to climbing gear just like every thing else. so,, black diamond, metilous, wild country, petzl, are the way to go.

Post by **flyinglow** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 5:55 pm

once i clipped my last couple pieces on single biners in order to save my last two slings for the anchor. can you say rope drag? that sucked... (big mistake on my part, but i was gettin sketched out, if i had more slings i probably would have put in more gear and run out anyway).
the OP said he had webbing, so he could use that to make a webolette, and not need to buy one right away. I wasn't trying to imply cordelettes are useless, they're the right tool for the job in lots of cases, just rarely necessary with the bolted anchors so common at the red. ya just gotta think ahead enough to keep a couple slings for the anchor. the lesson here is: don't be like me.

Post by **ReachHigh** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 6:06 pm

I forgot where I was but I once clipped my self to an anchor with the webing loop on a camalot and the beener off my chalk bag.

Post by JB » Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:52 pm

you can always use the rope itself to anchor in. that said...

I used my gear sling and the belt from my chalk bag to rig an anchor.

i've also used tricams as slings to minimize drag and keep nuts from popping out.

cut up cordolette to sling flakes and chockstones in order to descend from an alpine summit

done an anchorless belay stuffed inside a hole near minas tirith

used a munter hitch for belays and raps on multipitch when i left my device on the ground.

welcome to trad.

i'm sure others have stories far more interesting than mine.

Post by **Steve** » Sat Feb 18, 2006 10:13 pm

JB wrote: done an anchorless belay stuffed inside a hole near minas tirith

Was I on the receiving end of that belay? Going South? That was funny. You told me not to laugh, but when I got to the 'belay' that was about all I could do.

Post by **flyinglow** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 4:19 pm

old skool dude, gotta love it.

Post by JB » Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:13 pm

yeah, and it was hard to tell you not to laugh when i was cracking up too!

Post by **Steve** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:17 pm

Didn't you a piece somewhere for an anchor? And I use that term anchor lightly. Like you were sitting on a cam or something?