RRC Archives

The shower burns a bit when you get to it. When you get proficient ,you dont get scraped up like that anymore.

Muscle Beach!

Wes wrote:yep, seems like just yesterday, but must have been 3+ years ago, SCIN took me out for my OW 101 class. Posted some good tips from the day, but must be lost on climbky.com somewhere. Pretty much, just get ready to suffer a bit, and take the time to learn what works, rather then just trying to get up the route any way you can. OW rewards the patiant climber...

I remember this thread... it went a little something like:

Wear socks. Tape your pants to your socks. Wear a long-sleeved shirt. Tape your shirt to your tape gloves. etc...

My advice-- If you go out with 512OW for your first OW experience, don't listen to him when he tells you the face holds are out.

OW is fun when you learn the techniques and are able to put them to use. Leavittation is by far one of the coolest things I've experienced while climbing.

Like a chimney, there are special techniques that can make an off-width a lot easier than just dumbly struggling up it. Learn them! You should be able to get a good idea from any general climbing instructional book.

My suggestion is the same as Yasmeen's when she said to use holds on the face, but I would add to that to try and be aware of features back inside the off-width that can help you, too.

Another suggestion: A big problem with off-widths is protection. Off-width protection devices each weigh about as much as a small foreign car. Dragging a full rack of these thing up the crack is tough. Be VERY careful if you plan on walking a piece up. That is dangerous. When you are moving the piece, you are in danger, and even with it in place, you are in danger because of the long distance between gear that walking a piece will do to you.

Also, I humbly recommend Crackadile for a first offwidth in the Gorge. Do Green Corner, too, when you're back there. It's not an offwidth, but it is a fun and easy climb.

ZSpider

small foriegn car.. hehe that's funny! Crackodile is a good one.

Yasmeen wrote:
My advice-- If you go out with 512OW for your first OW experience, don't listen to him when he tells you the face holds are out.

Haha...SHHHHHHH!!!!!

Are the holds inside the OW off..........?

Yuk

Good Tang, nice first pitch and then what you're seeking.

That's a squeeze Crank. A really good one too.