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uhhhh...that hold is off!

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 3:11 am
by roots
Ray, obviously you didn't see that there is yellow tape on that hold...oh well. Yeah, I've never understood calling a hold off-route if it is on. The first time I ever got Tuskan Raider someone told me that I wasn't allowed to rest in the hueco! What the F*&$? Call it .11d then! I think I'm going to puke!

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 3:36 am
by 512OW
God its good to come back from 4 days of Southern crack climbing and read this.....

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 3:45 am
by SCIN
Crack climbing version:
Hey! That face hold is out! You *have* to use the crack for that move! You placed too much gear! You *have* to run that part out and you're not allowed to wear tape on your left ring finger for that move because it makes the lock better!

Glad you had fun down South. I felt like hiding in the Lower Region when I heard that lode shit.

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 1:38 pm
by dhoyne
Give me a break. 'Off' holds outside? Off route should mean that you've wandered so far that it's dangerous. Not that there's a good hold that some clown didn't see when they climbed it. It ain't the gym...

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 6:50 pm
by ReachHigh
I just tell them, I'm working the variation.

Posted: Mon Nov 28, 2005 7:43 pm
by mcrib
I like that.

Posted: Tue Nov 29, 2005 6:34 pm
by captain static
pigsteak wrote:If it bothered you SCIN, then you put too much importance on whispers and spray. Next time, jump on an off width that the pre-teen has surely never been on.
That reminds me of the time I was at SBR and climbed "No Return" with TK. There were some kids next to us who flew up "Commencement". Then after TK & I got down, these kids hopped on "No Return". Never seen so much crack flailing in my life. It was kinda amusing, at least for couple of old trad heads like TK & I.

Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 3:37 am
by Power2U
All that Shit is super Gay!
Did you do Convicted without the kneee Bar?
Golden Touch without the rest out left at the top?
Buda Hole with out the two Huecos?
Hot for Teacher / Tuskan Rader without climbing in the huecos?

Come on! The rest is there take it! If you feel like you need to try the route without the rest do that after you have done it with the rest, just for your own self satisfaction. I don't think taking an obvious rest "invalidates" (Whatever that means!) and ascent. All I do know is that if you fall above the obvious rest on a red-point or on-sight go you're an idiot!

Good luck on GT, SCIN.

BTW you should have come down, handed the kid the rope and said show me how it's done hot stuff. Odds are he couldn't get past the second bolt :wink:

Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 3:21 am
by pigsteak
power2u...

yes.
yes.
yes.

and, man is she ever hottttttttt.

Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 4:49 am
by ninesixfour
Crack climbing version:
Hey! That face hold is out! You *have* to use the crack for that move! You placed too much gear! You *have* to run that part out and you're not allowed to wear tape on your left ring finger for that move because it makes the lock better!
Exactly. This gayness and ego exists in all of climbing, and all of sport for that matter. What do you care what someone else thinks of the way you climbed it? You're climbing for yourself, not for some silly boy. Do it however you want and call it a send whenever you feel like you sent it.