RRC Archives

So that I definitely set the record straight:
Repeat.
I didn't say that I use people's opinions to grade routes. However, if I hear many people say that they think a route is sandbagged or soft then the opinions on this site will heavily weigh on my decision to change the rating in the hardcopy guide.

Also...........
I always respect the opinion of the FA on the grade of a line. John Bronaugh once told me that he never even considered changing the grade of a line in his guides unless he or others felt it was at least two letter grades off. I think that's a good idea.

The statistics are just for fun and rarely carry meaning in the production guide.

Thanks for the clarification! It is definitely entertaining to see what others rate climbs.

It seems to me to change the grade of a route when that grade has stood for years. The only possible reason would be new beta or I guess if there had not been alot of traffic on the route. But if something has been 12d for ten years why change it? But in the end I guess it really does not matter now that I give it serious thought.

There were some lines changed in the new guide, Snooker (which is probably the 12d you are referring to) was one of them. The anchors on that line were moved higher and made the line .13a by wide concensus. Surely felt harder than any .12d to me but I definitely didn't change the grade based on my opinion. Other lines at the Lode were brought down from 13a to .12d but I had nothing to do with that. My chapters were passed around by the editor and the grades got mangled in the process. I had nothing to do with that. It really doesn't even matter.

I just fucking climb and always realize that my feats are nothing compared to what is possible and what the stars are doing out there. Whether a line is 5.12d, 5.13c, or 5.11b means absolutely nothing in the grand scheme of things. Just watch any video with Kehl, Graham, Sharma, etc. in it for a good smack down of realization (no pun intended).

I'm not sure what that has to do with anything but I guess I'm paranoid that people think I'm in the business of changing grades on lines. I really don't fucking give a shit. It all means nothing. You should climb what feels challenging or what feels fun. If you happen to have freakish skills then you can get into the business of putting up world class lines and arguing over whether you've done the first 5.16 or not. That is when it matters. Watch videos and read mags. Don't get caught in the world of thinking you are "elite".

Fuck every fucking number chaser in the world. Open your eyes and let go of your ego. Only then will you get stronger. Climb what feels hard for you. Why do you hate slab? Because you suck at it and women are better than you at it. Why do you hate offwidth? Because it's humbling to fall on a 5.9 in front of your amigos. Climb every god damned line you are confronted with. Fist cracks, edges, jugs, pockets, fingers, techy, slab, offwidth, hands, dihedrals, R rated lines, X rated lines, solos, roofs, bitches, hoes, sluts.

Shit, I have no idea why I'm saying this stuff.

Since I'm on the subject of ratings I want to say I big Fuck You to every motherfucker who has decided to jump on the bandwagon and trash Jared and other developers at Muir Valley for not taking the time to pass out a fucking opinion card on what their routes should be rated.

Do you all even realize that Jared has been involved with over 120 first ascents within like fucking two years? It took Porter about 6 years to bolt under 100 lines. Jared and other FAscentionists at Muir are developing at an extremely rapid pace so that YOU can have a fun place to go play on the weekends. Yet all you can do is jump on the "inaccuracy" of the grades? What the fuck? Does it really fucking matter if a line is 5.11d or 5.12a? Does it make you look like Sharma if you flash a 5.12b then say you think it was 5.11d? Fuck no. You are a fucking silly person. You are walking into the store, stealing products, then complaining about their functionality. Fuck you. Thieves.

Another thing........
How about the motherfuckers that run around in their fucking Prana pants and bitch about the bolt jobs at so-and-so crag? Go climb some fucking lines from all eras and tell me you can't ground on other lines. How about the second clip on Heart Shaped Box? I'll give you fifty bucks if you fall with a handfull of slack from that line. But you won't. Why? Because you would deck. I can name 100 others from all eras and all crags. Yet you want to lump "bad bolting jobs" into one specific area just because you are a fucking hillbilly who grew up hating the rival high school and still don't want to let go of that mentality.

"Look at me! I'm a (insert your rival side of the Red here) Supporter which means I hate (insert your favorite private land owner's crag here)" Fuck you. I'm the one climbing at both areas and sucking it up when there's ground potential. Quit being such a fucking sport climber, pussy.

Snap! That's what a sport climber is. It has nothing to do with clipping bolts. But God damn why do I spend so much time thinking about smacking these bitches up side the head. I must be a wanker.

Oh yea, what I meant to say was, you could allow everyone to rate other users as to their ability to rate routes. A high rating would contribute more weight to the consensus grade of a route they rated. A high standard deviation about a users ability to rate would result in less weight being given the consensus.

I second Ray's motions.
It's really bizzare that people bitch about team muir.
One word: Jealous.

Funny thing is, the continous bitching has made many FAist defensive. Is that an indication of their personality? No. Its an indication that people give them so much shit over somethng they care about that they feel they have to defend themselves before an attack even happens.

Anybody remember when Kevin Pogue, who developed some of the most popular lines in the red? He came onto this site and some blowjob anus sucker is like "we don't bolt pieces of crap on purpose anymore k-k-kevin(he was stuttering due to a pickle in his mouth), get the hell out of here"

What a piece of shit.

Don't like a route, fine. You don't have to like it. Just don't start slamming the bolters for doing having vision and a work ethic.