RRC Archives

This is RRG. A lot of face climbs here could be done on gear. But they're not, they are sport climbs. If someone did it many moons ago and didn't report it then they obviously didn't care whether or not anyone else knew about the climb or even repeated the climb. If someone new finds the route later on and sees a sport line in it and bolts it, then why should the FA care all of the sudden?

As long as the bolter is using good ethics in the first place (knows the land ownership/has permission, doesn't overbolt, uses good hardware, etc) then why should this be an issue?

what if the FAer didn't know about this site or did it before this sight was available? If they didn't know who to report the information to, why does that make their wishes for the route any less important than a route published in a book?

I led all the sport routes in the southern region on gear years and years ago. me and martin and greg and ron and jeff. they were scary leads and we didn't report them, but damnit, i want credit now. I also am going to rename them all. JB Rules #1, JB is Awesome, JB is sarcastic, JB is STRONG, etc...

So here's another question. If an R or an X route go with pro thats available now
should I tick it and keep quiet or let it out that it's protectable? Should the rating change?

You should let people know that the route is no longer scary because of small or big gear now available that didn't use to be so that maybe more people will get on it. Or if you want to look like a badass, keep quiet. I also I think the commitment grade should be subject to change if it's warranted. As technology improves, routes naturally become safer, from hardware to ropes. That's just my two cents though

I just don't think if a lot of time goes by and nobody knows about a route and then someone finds the line and deems it good for bolting that it should make a huge climbing scandal. A mature person would just let it go.

I've done many routes that no one knows about. If someone came along and claimed FA or bolted one of them, what would be the point of me making an issue out of it? The only point would be to feed my own ego. I don't own the rock. I don't have any legal say in what happens on any line I've climbed out there. Why should I make waves?

Well said.

Ratings should always reflect current conditions, not history. Otherwise ratings make no sense at all.

If the historic rating is of interest, that can be covered in the text of the route description.