RRC Archives

Greased Lightning at Oil Crag!!!!! One of the best routes at the red

Better geet used to "Aid the start" - with all the erotion and all...
I don't see too many climbers carrying an extra bag of dirt, and laying it each visit. Considering the nature of it all, the ground is going to get deeper and deeper, and the start may disapear, leaving no choice but to aid - even at the Red.
Currently, not too many 5.11 routes at the Red with an aid start, so if it's a new route going up, I'd say it would have to be worth doing.

Paul3eb wrote:like you: it's not that you don't like women, it's just that you prefer to sleep with men.

naw, sandy has made him see the light.
although in the light of her recent photoshoot you just gotta feel sorry for the boy.

There goes the "light". OMG... I still can't get over that "recent photo" from Sandy. For anyone who knows me... It's not that I don't like fat woman, it's just that I prefer when they do not resemble that photo. That's just too much for me... Sandy, I am now unable to sleep.
Sorry... the heck with your 5.11... that photo is hunting me man. I can't sleep.

why do you ask sunshine? do you consider the first part of Gold Rush at the Gallary A0? Cause that had some of the shittiest climbing to the first bolt when I did it a few weeks ago. But I for one would not be psyched to do a route that had an A0 start. anything that i get on that has an A0 start I climb through no matter how shitty the rock. But people do have differences in opinions.

Yes, I'd do it. We do so many other shenanegans; yarding up 15 feet isn't a big deal.

No.

whats A0? we don't do that in the gym here? do you have to use that "gear" stuff to do it? is it hard? can somebody teach me? i climb 5.11's in the gym all the time and usually only fall once or twice on them.

(sorry i just needed to do that)

Sure, why not? There are plenty of areas all over the country with AO starts. If people don't like it then they can go climb another route. Besides, maybe many years down the road some future climbing phenom will be able to free those moves...

Porter put up "Daisychain" and "Etrier" with AO starts. I've heard that they are great routes, but the reason they don't get much traffic is because of their location, not the AO starts.

I think the main issue would be WHY you're using an A0 start.

Like another poster said about the Killer Cave in Lander......the climb Killer has a overhanging start with seeping choss rock.........so A0 start is acceptable. The climb is very good.

If there's just no holds but the rock is quality is ok, then I would NOT.

Cheers,


dave

Sunshine wrote:Would you do a really cool 5.11 if you had to stick the first bolt and aid up to it to begin the route?