RRC Archives

I take my break hand off the rope when using a gri-gri all the time.

Sacrificial quicklinks would save the anchors. Probably two per anchor to get the orientation correct for topropers. Although not as bad as toproping, lowering does quit a bit of wear as well.

When I travel for work near climbing areas and don't have a partner I solo toprope with a grigri. I have logged, somewhere in the hundreds, falls onto a grigri without a brake hand. Some of them are big if I'm on a climb at my limit and don't have a chance to take slack out. Not a single problem if it's rigged correct.

I'm new here, some of you know me, met alot of you at Gathering.
Me and my girl are topropers (yeah, thats right) and I have never/will never run
our rope through the anchors, we are smarter than that. I do however have one question for you, remember I'm a rookie on here. Is it worse to toprope through
the anchors or victory whipping off climb routes??? I have been wondering since I see so many conflicting views/opinions/arguments on here....

not putting your rope through the anchors should be common sense.

This goes for "drop-in" anchors too.

Top roping through the ancors is basic newby shit. Everyone who has ever climbed knows the rules and everyone who breaks them isn't just breaking the sacrate rule, but selfishly putting other climbers at risk.

A good solution to somone who doesn't want to climb the route twice inorder to clean it, is to just put biners in the bolts then feeding the end through the shuts.(You will have to untie to do this) Allowing the next guy "top roper" to put the weight onto the biners instead of the shuts while climbing, and then only having to take the biners out to clean. Taking the fear of them unroping themselves and making a mistake while cleaning.

Just a thought from an unselfish concerned.

A lot of times just a kind word of advice can go along way to educate people. At low traffic areas (the Red obviously not included) toproping through the anchors is no big deal really and commonly accepted. It takes years, decades to see any wear on the hardware at places like this. A lot of people are used to this type of situation, so thinking about wearing out anchors might not be on their minds even though they may be competent climbers and even guides. Powen I think your decaf experiment failed.

I think it's more of a chemical imbalance to be quite honest. I'm quite erudite during the day.

Meadows, what are you referring to as "drop-in" anchors?

J-Rock, The anchors with biners that are not closed shut and you can just drop your rope in them. Ever climb Buddha Hole or Ethics Police at Solar Collector? They have drop-ins.

Ah, I know what you are talking about now. We always called them a different name (shuts), but that makes sense.