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Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:39 pm
by Danny
Good Tang now has a set of bolt anchors before you do the chimney from which you can rap to the ground with one rope. You can rap from the top to these anchors from a tree. This is by far my new favorite 5.7. Lower and middle small walls are both great places for good long routes. You can search the online guide by route length also. For example, search for length 120-500 feet and in the free text section type "order by length desc" to get the longest routes listed first.
Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:21 pm
by ynot
Larry, The big block under the roof of the second pitch of Dicey at best is so loose it's scary as hell. I knew if I came off,the cam behind it was going to push it, and me and the 4 kids below would all have been dead. It's as big as a large garden tractor. No thanks I'll stick to trying to send the first pitch.
I've been using big bros on some of your routes. What did you guys use? I saw "tubes" mentioned somewhere. Or did you just run it out? I have also seen odd looking I beam things used for pro. Maybe these were all lengths? There was one as a fixed anchor in the now closed Cindy Lou's Left Tube.
Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:17 pm
by Day
ynot, maybe someone should push that block off. It wasn't loose way back when. It would be a shame for the upper part of the route to remain inaccessible. As for wide crack protection back in the seventies, I had several tube chocks and one beam. Placements were generally crap, all wobbly and insecure.
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:06 pm
by Danny
That big pivoting block is one of the many highlights of the second pitch. To put a solid piece in just pivot the block out then wedge an overcamed cam in there. You would need a bulldozer to remove that block.
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 5:07 pm
by J-Rock
After reading through the new guidebook I really want to get on "The Quest"!
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:44 pm
by ynot
May not be do able if you trundled it. All I know is I about crapped in my drawers when I pulled down on it and it wobbled. Bulldozer or not I aint going back up there. When we got to the top the rap tree was sitting in a wet runnoff Getting down was as scary as going up.
Jrock I would love to follow the Quest. Hint Hint.
No Return is an awesome 2 pitch line ,one cool move after another all the way.
There are lots of great 2 pitch lines.