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Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:43 pm
by Paul3eb
ninesixfour wrote:In any case, a TR ascent is not a FA. Especially when the difference between a lead placing all the gear and a TR ascent is so great.
actually it is a first ascent.. first: well.. the first. ascent: to go up. so literally an fa is the first person to go up it, whether on tr, aid, gear, or solo. if you want to further clarify a ffa, fffa, or ffsa, go ahead.. it's a matter of semantics and ridiculousness.

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:59 pm
by ninesixfour
So Paul, when you're trying a route, after you send it on TR it's done and you move on? How about if you throw a rope down the route from the top and then jug back up it? Is that a first ascent too? Probably not. I think most would agree that leading a route is it's true FA.

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:27 pm
by Paul3eb
actually it is an fa.

i'm not talking about what i consider a "true" fa cause i don't really care and no one really should: it's a subjective matter and people will always bitch and fuss about what's a "true" fa. it's called a first ascent so call it what it is if you're going to fuss about what's "true". a first ascent is a first ascent, there is no "grey area" there. it's as if there's a bunch of apples and one's really bruised: it's an apple but it might not be the best.. but that's a matter of subjective descisions. but regardless of whether you think it's "really" an apple, it still is.

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:35 pm
by Horatio Felacio
you guys are gay.

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:45 pm
by Ultra
Yes we are gay...but. The simple fact of the matter. A Fa is a Fa. Regardless of "style". Its like "Nazi Bitch Crack" If I am not mistaken. Matt, You got the First free ascent BUT whatshisnuts got the FIRST ASCENT Back in the day....so are you going to take his FA (WHICH WAS AN AID ASCENT)away from him because you did it in a different style. I think not......

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:59 pm
by Horatio Felacio
i don't think anyone except steve petro and his belayer know how he climbed that crack. i really wouldn't call a send placing all the gear the true f.f.a., as opposed to sending placing all, but one piece (because a back-breaking tree used to be there).

why the hell is anyone talking about an f.a. anyway? the thread is about claiming a crack as a closed project?

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:32 pm
by RRO
Saying any route is a "closed" route due to it not being sent is BS anyway, "there are no rules in climbing". Now dont get all agro just yet. Its the respect not the "rule" that you give the person if you know that someone has done the work to equip/clean/find/train or whatever to do the route that you not get on it. Trad is a little different than sport, a crack is a crack and open to all. But like before, its respect that you not hop on it till the person working it has sent it or an abnormal amount of time has passed , the person is not working the route or is just in plain over their head. The rock is there you do as you wish but what goes around comes around, snake a route and you will prob get snaked back.

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:50 pm
by haas
RRO wrote:Saying any route is a "closed" route due to it not being sent is BS anyway, "there are no rules in climbing".
Don't you have a closed project at Chica Bonita Wall? Hypocrite :wink:

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:54 pm
by RRO
Anyone can take snipets from a post and create their own illusion :)

To answer your question. Yes, a sport route that still needs more cleaning. The trad that is out there is open game. Some I want to send first but none that would keep me up at night if someone else did them. Go back to soloing apporach pitches and call me later. I think the thin air is messing with you.

Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:57 pm
by haas
RRO wrote:Anyone can take snipets from a post and create their own illusion :)
:lol: