RRC Archives

docpolecat wrote:spend a few mulments

SNIGLET ALERT: "mulments" a combination of "moment" and "mulling"
which I think captures the meaning of docpolecat's statement with greater efficiency.
Well done!

I totally agree with the "try an easy grade" for your first lead. However, if you climb a lot at your gym start leading there, with people who can supervise you an instruct you. It is a very controlled and safer enviornment. You can concentrate on how to clip, clean, belay etc without having to worry about falling and hitting a tree or various other things. However if your heart is set on a lead outdoors, try Mr Bungle at grays branch. It is a 5.8ish arete that feels like 5.6 (at least it did to me.) PLus you can top out with a sweet view! On Mr Bungles there are I believe metal pipes? maybe sticking out/imbedded of the rock that (if you need them) are bomber holds. Good luck! Don't back clip! 8)

p0bray01 wrote:On Mr Bungles there are I believe metal pipes? maybe sticking out/imbedded of the rock that (if you need them) are bomber holds.

Those are natural features in the rock. It is weather resistant iron oxide bands that form to some really cool and surreal shapes. The iron features are what make the Red a world class climbing area.

Did you see that, Paul? Mr. Bungle is a world-class climbing route!!!

i guess now that it has been stated on the internet it must be true....man and i always thought that it kinda sucked (and it was my first lead)

go to muir and stay off bungle, it is crowded and chipped. weak sauce!

I rem Danger Mouse and Please Dont Feed the Triceritops being good first leads. A little hike, you will prob be alone. As every one else said Rebel is good.

Not that I lead a lot, which I sort of think makes my opinion count here , but The Offering at Rebel is a great lead. Don't screw your beaner shut and make sure the whole draw is on the anchors and you should be fine!

Seriously it's a fun route with a little perk at the anchors.

No shite man,
My first lead was in brushy mountain state penetentary in Wartburg, TN. We was climbing a 5.9 that was long and run out. I had some particullary short shorts on because that's what Tyrae told me he liked. I climbed to the 3rd bolt and clipped that snap link in there and moved up on some good grips. Well it seemed my scrotum had slipped out of them shorts and clipped itself into the snap link. Well low and behold, I pulled up on them grips and felt somthin tugging at my loins. I looked like a flying squierel com'n out my pant leg. Tyrea said I better come down to that bolt, but it ain't in my nature to down climb in the direction oppos'n the prevailing direction of the routes. I kept going up and by the time my scrot busted loose I was tighter than dicks hat band. That thing rolled up like a watch spring. Anyhow, that's my first lead, that's how Tyrae liked it.

bungle sucks rotten sweaty ass for sure...