RRC Archives

Pulled a #4 and #3 TCU (and was caught by the #2) trying to top out Long Live Trad. Ended up falling 15 ft. or so and had a nice little bruise above my eye where the #3 hit me.

My first real fall on gear has (so far) been my worst. It was on Classic Jamcrack in Yosemite - it's a straight-in slab crack. I managed to jam the rope in with my foot when I moved up, so I was stuck and unable or too dumb to just move down. I fidgeted for a while and finally (unexpectedly) popped out of the crack. I only fell about 10'-12', but I managed to get the rope behind my leg, so I got flipped and ended up with my head about 2' above the pointy cheater rock at the start. Sure taught me a lesson in rope management!

15-18 foot whipper, no pro. Belayer litterally caught be before I hit the ground.

Took a nice 20+ footer on to the blue TCU weekend before last on ripetide ride, almost hit a ledge. Then proceded to take several big falls on rebar at the top, again on the blue TCU, and other small gear. Those are the most recient, but I fall on gear quite a bit...

My first trad fall was on the beginning of "Bedtime for Bonzo" of all routes. I was a gumby and my foot slipped. I landed in a rhodo at the base of the route and it softly cradled my fall.

My very first trad fall was on Strick 9; back when you had to clip the anchors on the ledge. I placed a good piece in the top corner but only had an Alein in the flake. As I was reaching for the top, I lost my footing and away I went. I don't remember what gear I placed where but I'll always remember watching that Alien rip out as I went plummetting by.

My one and only lead fall while ice climbing. It was only about five feet long but the thought of falling on an ice screw is scary shit.

i took a really big whipper (70ft) on, right on..., at skybridge. i was aiding up it and i was at the top of the thin right leaning part of the crack. i had about 6 knifeblades below me. i was testing a cam when it popped. i fell on to the offset nut i was standing on. it blow and so did all the knifeblades. i was caught about 2ft from the ground by a .75 cam, which broke. i think most of the gear came out because the rock was kind of wet and i broke a little rock. i ended up dislocating and braking my elbow. i also took most of the skin off of my left arm. i hope not to take that big of a fall ever agian. unless it is on el cap and i have a lot of free air to fall into.

Yeah, here's a photo of the .75 that saved him but can't be fixed.


the survior himself
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and the knifeblades that ripped out of the rock
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Damn, ynp1. I think you won the award for the worst gear fall taken at the Red. Glad to hear that you recovered and got back on the horse!