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Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:18 pm
by KD
Meadows wrote:Defective Y chromosome? I do the victory whip often so what does this mean for me? OMG, I'm a man wearing pink!!

Hey Hoyne, I wouldn't fall on those 5.9s either.
DL3 genetics - Dude Looks Like a Lady

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:21 pm
by Meadows
Does this mean I'm gay if I'm a dude who likes dudes?

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:24 pm
by KD
If I was a girl i'd be gay. Girls r hot.

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 2:31 pm
by Ultra
weber, are you talking about Andrew G. in the video? Did he make it fashionable. So now all the cool kiddies are doing it?

Well the truth is. People have been doing it for years. Steep rock lends itself to that kind of behavior. Its the thrill seeking mentality. To ask people to not do it is to ask them not to climb.

If you really want them to stop you should just use seventy-five cent open cold shuts as rappel stations. They wouldn't "victory whip" off that. :shock:

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 2:48 pm
by weber
Meadows wrote:...I do the victory whip often so what does this mean for me?
It means: guess what causes those nasty spinners you encounter?
:wink:

Rick

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 3:01 pm
by Meadows
In saying that, Rick, you're implying that is the only reason we get spinners.

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 3:09 pm
by Meadows
weber wrote: Taking falls on the bolted hangers leading up to the top anchors
weber wrote:Wes, I was referring to the two hanger brackets at the anchor twisting, not the bracket below the anchor. A whipper will stress the last brackets the rope passes through.
I'm confused ... so explain it to me like I'm a five-year-old:

I thought victory whippers meant not clipping the anchors and falling on the last bolt. Are you saying people are clipping the anchors, climbing above and then falling?

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 3:15 pm
by weber
Ultra wrote:weber...Steep rock lends itself to that kind of behavior. Its the thrill seeking mentality. To ask people to not do it is to ask them not to climb... :shock:
Please note that I didn't ask anyone not to do victory whips -- just wanted them to think about what they are doing to the bolted hangers.

I am dead serious about creating and keeping sport climbing routes down here as safe as possible. A lot of folks who come to climb here have a reasonable expectation that the bolted protection is in good condition. They don't put undue stress on hardware afixed to this absurdly weak sandstone, and they resent those who perform reckless, unecessary feats of daring that weaken hangers.

I'm not naive. I know that nothing anyone says here will change the minds of those of you who wanna play "Tarzan of the Crags". Just don't come whining about spinners or bolts blowing.

Rick

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 3:19 pm
by Horatio Felacio
yeah, i'm not sure what weber means either? falling on the anchors, or falling on the last bolt?

Posted: Wed Aug 31, 2005 3:25 pm
by weber
Meadows wrote:In saying that, Rick, you're implying that is the only reason we get spinners.
Implying nothing of the kind. You are implying my implying. Lighten up girl.

Spinners are caused by a torque being applied to a hanger bracket that is excessive enough to break the stiction bond between the rear surface of the hanger bracket and the rock wall.

Falling will cause this torque. Unecessary falling will cause unecessary torque.

Rick