The Rising @ Rebel Camp (Branch)

Post by **diggum** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:01 pm

This is not helping my lead head.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:05 pm

diggum wrote:This is not helping my lead head.

Don't worry, you have much better odds of breaking a 'biner then ripping a bolt.

Post by **Stewy911** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:06 pm

i like it that means my falls will be longer if it ever happened to me. WHIPPERS!
lets hope if it does happen it happen around the last bolt going to the anchors

Post by **captain static** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:33 pm

Wes wrote:
Stewy911 wrote:that would be quite scary to know a bolt blew out due to a lead fall
It has happened more then once in the red already...

You mean I was right all along when, as a born traddie, I first started down the dark path to sport I was more afraid to fall on bolts than to fall on gear?

Post by **Wes** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:36 pm

No, I would say that many, many more pieces of trad gear have blown then bolts by a pretty large margin. Although, with the aging of many bolts in the red, I wouldn't be suprised if more bolt blowing events happen.

Post by **Saxman** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 12:20 am

Take longer falls. Longer falls actually produce less force due to rope stretch. Too bad the ground is so close.

Post by **cowboy** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 1:18 am

It happened to two guys from Louisville and Indy (I think) last wednesday. They looked pretty wigged out after it happened. Guy said he took a pretty hard whipper on it and his second removed it while on TR.

Post by **spuzo** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 1:19 am

Wes wrote:
Stewy911 wrote:that would be quite scary to know a bolt blew out due to a lead fall
It has happened more then once in the red already...

Where?
You say this, but the only bolt that I know of in the Red that has been pulled by a lead fall, was on "Sand" at Roadside. The guy who fell on it was the one who placed it and he thought it was marginal before he fell on it. Hence, "Up Yonder" is the last route developed ingress to the ampitheater proper.

So where is this bolts popping like popcorn happening?

Post by **Wes** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 1:43 am

Not quite like popcorn. The story on Sand is here: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/museum/ ... mage9.html

And rhunt says he know of at least one more. I know of a hanger that came off while someone was trying to clip back in on a TR burn.

And, from the shape of some of the bolts Terry has been replacing, I would say some bolt failures are almost inevitable. Some of the oldest bolts in the red are still out there. Anytime you see a bolt with a nut, esp. one that is in rock that gets wet, you should be very carefull.

But the one that they are talking about here is newer and of the "good" type, so my guess would be something really strange and un-usuall happened. Like 1 in a billion type odds.

Post by **spuzo** » Tue Aug 16, 2005 2:39 am

Do you know where rhunt is talking about ?