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Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:28 am
by pawilkes
i don't have much experience with trad climbing so i like to know what size of gear i will need on a route. im not talking about a #2 here and a blue alien there, just big, medium or small. helps me not lug all my gear up a route. its like knowing how many bolts and how long a sport route is. does that give away the onsight? i don't really like getting beta before i get on a route or even when i've already fallen on a route. when i really can't do it i'll ask. sometimes its good to know though. i was on a route the other day and goes left and then back right to the anchors. well i tried going straight up a waterfall b/c i figured it was cheating to go out left and fell. when i got back down i re-read the description and realized i should have gone out left. that would have been helpful to know,
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 9:52 am
by Spragwa
pigsteak wrote:real climbers use guidebooks? I thought giving away the grade even ruined an onsite...
He he. That's funny. I never owned a guidebook. I LOVE the online guide for the new areas. I'm definitely buying Ray's to support my friend. It doubles as a photo album of my buddies.
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 11:21 am
by Crankmas
i'm looking forward to it also, and for all the wrong reasons as well,
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:16 pm
by dhoyne
Hmm.. and this whole time I thought climbing was supposed to be fun. 8)
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:29 pm
by J-Rock
dhoyne wrote:Hmm.. and this whole time I thought climbing was supposed to be fun. 8)
No man, it's all about the numbers and how hard you train... style and ethics mean nothing... in the future climbing outside will be like the gym... everything will be scrubbed, cleaned of loose rock and vegetation, and tick-marked until it is only about the almighty "send" regardless of the impact to the environment and the experience of the Great outdoors...
Oh yeah, and the cracks will be bolted...
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:34 pm
by J-Rock
Oh yeah, and there won't be mixed routes either...
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:36 pm
by Huggybone
Hey, your right! in fact, I heard of this route that had a big hold bolted on it! (elbow in side)
Which cracks will be bolted next?
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 12:36 pm
by J-Rock
I heard about that too! I was told that Rizzo did that! That pesky little rat!
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 3:58 pm
by Paul3eb
pawilkes wrote:i don't have much experience.. so i like to know what size of gear i will need.. im not.. big.. i don't really like getting.. on.. it.. sometimes its good.. though.
this is a climbing forum.. discuss this elsewhere.
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2005 4:43 pm
by pigsteak
with little trad experience, how did you get a rack so large that you can't choose proper pro?