whatever happened to onsight climbing???

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pawilkes
Posts: 1570
Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 5:45 am

Post by pawilkes »

i don't have much experience with trad climbing so i like to know what size of gear i will need on a route. im not talking about a #2 here and a blue alien there, just big, medium or small. helps me not lug all my gear up a route. its like knowing how many bolts and how long a sport route is. does that give away the onsight? i don't really like getting beta before i get on a route or even when i've already fallen on a route. when i really can't do it i'll ask. sometimes its good to know though. i was on a route the other day and goes left and then back right to the anchors. well i tried going straight up a waterfall b/c i figured it was cheating to go out left and fell. when i got back down i re-read the description and realized i should have gone out left. that would have been helpful to know,
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
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Spragwa
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Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 4:05 pm

Post by Spragwa »

pigsteak wrote:real climbers use guidebooks? I thought giving away the grade even ruined an onsite...
He he. That's funny. I never owned a guidebook. I LOVE the online guide for the new areas. I'm definitely buying Ray's to support my friend. It doubles as a photo album of my buddies. :wink:
Jesus only knows that she tries too hard. She's only trying to keep the sky from falling.

-Everlast
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Crankmas
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Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

i'm looking forward to it also, and for all the wrong reasons as well,
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dhoyne
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Post by dhoyne »

Hmm.. and this whole time I thought climbing was supposed to be fun. 8)
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.

[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
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J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

dhoyne wrote:Hmm.. and this whole time I thought climbing was supposed to be fun. 8)
No man, it's all about the numbers and how hard you train... style and ethics mean nothing... in the future climbing outside will be like the gym... everything will be scrubbed, cleaned of loose rock and vegetation, and tick-marked until it is only about the almighty "send" regardless of the impact to the environment and the experience of the Great outdoors...

Oh yeah, and the cracks will be bolted...
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
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J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Oh yeah, and there won't be mixed routes either...
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
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Huggybone
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Joined: Tue Nov 05, 2002 12:08 am

Post by Huggybone »

Hey, your right! in fact, I heard of this route that had a big hold bolted on it! (elbow in side)
:lol: Which cracks will be bolted next?
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."
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J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

I heard about that too! I was told that Rizzo did that! That pesky little rat!
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
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Paul3eb
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2003 1:49 am

Post by Paul3eb »

pawilkes wrote:i don't have much experience.. so i like to know what size of gear i will need.. im not.. big.. i don't really like getting.. on.. it.. sometimes its good.. though.
this is a climbing forum.. discuss this elsewhere.
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

with little trad experience, how did you get a rack so large that you can't choose proper pro?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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