RRC Archives

Is there any kind of route guide?

If the weather is good we are planning to take a 4 day trip to Seneca this weekend! Yahoo! Multi-pitch trad! Yahoo!

No, I don't think there is a topo, but one should be done. If you look at Trad Mikes photo, the arrete on the far left is 5.10b. Mixed route, mostly small gear. You'll see the line of bolts if you hike up to it. I think it's 4 pitches. I put it up. There are anchors at the belays, and you can rap from the top. The next route to the right is a beautiful 1-pitch dihedral. 5.11 classic. There are anchors at the top of the crack. There are loads of 5.12 sport climbs just right of this crack. If you continue to hike between the fins, you'll probably spot "Psychotic Reaction", a classic 5.9+ crack system on the left wall as you hike up the corridor. It's 4 pitches long, not sure if there is an anchor on top - bring a headlamp, getting down could be an epic. First pitch is the crux - its a right facing, gargantuan dihedral, offwidth, but you can layback. Bring a #4 camalot/big gear for the crux. If you continue up between the fins, you can scramble up a ledge system to the right of Psychotic reaction. Be careful; a woman named Karen fell off the "trail" here and broke her back. Pry-baby is the sustained 5.11c face climb (mixed) that starts up the face with scalloped face holds(2 pitches?). And Marlboro Man, 5.10c is the climb that goes up the right facing, right arching dihedral. (also mixed, just need a few small nuts, #4 rp, red and brown tricams).
A highly recommended route is the "Old Timer's route". It is on the right-most fin on Trad Mikes photo. It starts to the left of the buttress, just inside the corridor. 1st pitch is 5.8 cracks/dihedrals that lead to a large belay ledge with anchors. 2nd pitch = crux ; 5.11b move up a thin dihedral just above the belay. Continue up another 100 feet to the 2nd belay. 3rd pitch = 5.10 crack up immaculate porceline rock. 4th pitch follow the line of WWII ring angle pitons to the summit. 5.10, jugs (don't trust the pitons). Rap the route (bring two ropes, and maybe 10 feet of webbing to replace the sun-baked stuff thats there) This is the longest route in West Virginia, will keep you busy most of the day, and is worth all the driving and trespassing. It was named in honor of the 10th division boys who trained there before going to get shot up in Italy during WWII. I think the clean streak in the lichen (far right in the photo), on the right (west) face of the right fin is "Fintasia", a 5.11 route. Never been on this one. Probably 4 pitches as well. I think its mixed too. This should be plenty to keep you busy. One day for Psychotic Reaction, one day for Old Timers route, and you can spend days climbing the other routes.
P.S. if you look north while you are climbing, you will see "the Orange wall" Its about 110 feet tall, speckled with some bitchin routes, and completely hidden from the road. To get there hike north up the gulley between the two smaller fins. Then wrap around to the west following a trail. The trail goes east again through a gap. Continue north between fins to the Orange wall. On the main/best east facing orange wall the routes are from left to right: Orange Sunshine (5.9/5.10 crack/dihedral, named after this lovely make of LSD), Total Recall (5.12a mixed), "Eves Crack and Adam's finish" - 5.12b - crack to bolted face, and then some bitchin 5.11d crack - forget what I named it. Have the belayer watch the end of the ropes when you lower - I got dropped here.
Bring two ropes for the long routes, one rope will do at the Orange Wall.