RRC Archives

In general you should clip into the hanger bolt (assuming there is room) and not the rap ring to reduce links in the system and provide a more organized anchor. I think there was a long discussion on this awhile back.

On another note I noticed at least one climb at Muir that had the wire swages coming together with only one rap ring as the anchor. Although I realize these rap rings are super strong the problem is the lack of redundancy. There is no reason an anchor can not or should not have two pieces of gear throughout the system. This is a basic safe climbing fundamental to provide redundancy whenever possible.

Eric, I really like an over under setup with just one rap ring or 1/2" quick link. Bomber. Compared to all the other "single points of failure" in the climbing system, they are pretty solid

I think that's J J's anchor set up. I ran into him at Muir while we were going to Hatton Hollow, he put in three of the four routes down there I think and was telling us about the anchor creation and set up. Interesting look, they held, other than that I couldn't tell you about their strength versus anything else.

Wes- are you referring to this type?

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... ic_id=1621

Yep, usually sorta like that. Sometimes with a couple smaller quick links and then a steel rap ring. That one looks a little bit different then the usual for some reason though. Not sure why.

Looks like it would be a pain to equalize cleanly for lowering or TR.

Eric wrote:On another note I noticed at least one climb at Muir that had the wire swages coming together with only one rap ring as the anchor. Although I realize these rap rings are super strong the problem is the lack of redundancy. There is no reason an anchor can not or should not have two pieces of gear throughout the system. This is a basic safe climbing fundamental to provide redundancy whenever possible.

That setup is OVER redundant actually. It was a collaboration between JJ and Rick if I'm correct. I'm sure Rick can demonstrate this during the bolting clinic in Muir this coming weekend. So don't worry, Artsay.

Also when it comes to the Fixe Rap Ring anchors, one should clip their quickdraws to the rings themselves when setting up a TR since clipping directly to the hangers can cause a loosening of the torque on them. Cassio, we have seen a good number of people doing this, esp on the climbs on the Tectonic Wall which is why we had to retighten the anchors on those routes a few times.

I have a question for the bolting gurus. Although it would be nice for everyone to carry a 9/16" wrench around to tighten loose bolts, how is the casual person supposed to know how tight to tighten a bolt?

I would think the bolters would get a 'feel' for torque after a while, but a person like me has every opportunity to overtorque and crack the rock or bolt, turning a loose but otherwise safe bolt into a potentially hazardous bolt.

I go directly into the hangers with the draws instead of the rap rings and/or chains. One, I figure I'm eliminating the weakest link in the chain theory. Two, I have a buddy who has a fit anytime the rap rings are used for anything more than a rappel. He said rap rings are hollow aluminum, might not absorb the force of a TR fall, etc.

I realize that my weakest link in the old rusty chain theory is impervious to negative comment, but what about my buddy’s fear of the rap ring?