Route Maintenance
In general you should clip into the hanger bolt (assuming there is room) and not the rap ring to reduce links in the system and provide a more organized anchor. I think there was a long discussion on this awhile back.
"But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?" – Lord Byron
On another note I noticed at least one climb at Muir that had the wire swages coming together with only one rap ring as the anchor. Although I realize these rap rings are super strong the problem is the lack of redundancy. There is no reason an anchor can not or should not have two pieces of gear throughout the system. This is a basic safe climbing fundamental to provide redundancy whenever possible.
"But what is happiness except the simple harmony between a man and the life he leads?" – Lord Byron
I think that's J J's anchor set up. I ran into him at Muir while we were going to Hatton Hollow, he put in three of the four routes down there I think and was telling us about the anchor creation and set up. Interesting look, they held, other than that I couldn't tell you about their strength versus anything else.
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squeezindlemmon
- Posts: 1452
- Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:02 pm
That setup is OVER redundant actually. It was a collaboration between JJ and Rick if I'm correct. I'm sure Rick can demonstrate this during the bolting clinic in Muir this coming weekend. So don't worry, Artsay.Eric wrote:On another note I noticed at least one climb at Muir that had the wire swages coming together with only one rap ring as the anchor. Although I realize these rap rings are super strong the problem is the lack of redundancy. There is no reason an anchor can not or should not have two pieces of gear throughout the system. This is a basic safe climbing fundamental to provide redundancy whenever possible.
Also when it comes to the Fixe Rap Ring anchors, one should clip their quickdraws to the rings themselves when setting up a TR since clipping directly to the hangers can cause a loosening of the torque on them. Cassio, we have seen a good number of people doing this, esp on the climbs on the Tectonic Wall which is why we had to retighten the anchors on those routes a few times.
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley
I have a question for the bolting gurus. Although it would be nice for everyone to carry a 9/16" wrench around to tighten loose bolts, how is the casual person supposed to know how tight to tighten a bolt?
I would think the bolters would get a 'feel' for torque after a while, but a person like me has every opportunity to overtorque and crack the rock or bolt, turning a loose but otherwise safe bolt into a potentially hazardous bolt.
I would think the bolters would get a 'feel' for torque after a while, but a person like me has every opportunity to overtorque and crack the rock or bolt, turning a loose but otherwise safe bolt into a potentially hazardous bolt.
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
I go directly into the hangers with the draws instead of the rap rings and/or chains. One, I figure I'm eliminating the weakest link in the chain theory. Two, I have a buddy who has a fit anytime the rap rings are used for anything more than a rappel. He said rap rings are hollow aluminum, might not absorb the force of a TR fall, etc.
I realize that my weakest link in the old rusty chain theory is impervious to negative comment, but what about my buddy’s fear of the rap ring?
I realize that my weakest link in the old rusty chain theory is impervious to negative comment, but what about my buddy’s fear of the rap ring?