Posted: Wed May 18, 2005 5:58 pm
Haha, you called the Captain DUDE! 
You are probably going to have to break down and buy the guidebook. Its a little tricky to find your way around the crag - like finding the broadway ledge "trail". Here is a link to another area:
http://www.nelsonrocks.org/
This is Nelson Rocks Preserve. Stu bought this land when it went up for sale. There is an online guidebook to Nelson, but I think you have to log in to access it. There is a ~10 pitch 5.7 that traverses the east face of the northwest fin. Never did it, supposed to be a blast. Lots of sport routes, some bitchin trad lines (Cresendo, 5.10, Stone Gallows, 5.10), less rock fall/traffic relative to Seneca, close to Seneca (~10 miles south). Good place to spend a day or a month.
The mack-daddy crag in the area is Champe Rocks. But you probably don't want to go there on your first trip - it involves a river crossing, maybe some stealth trespassing, to get to a crag with no guidebook. 3 and 4 pitch routes, longest routes in WV, no crowds. This one is about 7 miles N of Seneca; you can't see the bitchin west face of the southeast fin from the road. Have a good trip.
Another must-do classic sport route at Seneca is Bonsai - 5.12. Feels like you're in a hall of mirrors when you're at the crux. Lots of fun, harder routes that aren't crowded on the west face of north peak. Mad Men only, Malevolence, Bonsai etc.
