Looking for a GriGri

[tomdarch]

m u s t r e s i s t a t c v s . g r i g r i f l a m e w a r ...... m u s t r e s i s t

[marathonmedic]

A reason I can see for using an ATC on lead is it's easier to quickly feed out rope for a clip, though with practice there is little difference. I'd still rather have a new climber feeding rope through a self-locking device rather than an ATC.

I picked up a new irrational fear this weekend. I'm afraid the rope will start to slip through my (new) belayer's hands while she uses an ATC to catch lead falls. I'm afraid the rope will start to burn her and she'll reflexively drop the rope. Now I'm seriously thinking about switching to a grigri.

[young'n climber]

Well tom d arch. do you prefer a gri-gri or an atc?

[kdelap]

the reason that the gri gri has safety concerns is because it is counter-intuitive. If something happens you should just let go; but you are also told to never take your hand off of the brake. So what happens in all of the lowering accidents is that people are instinctively just squeezing tighter except for the hand that is burning which is of course the break hand. The gri gri does have a statistically high number of accidents in gym situations. It is also used by most gyms. I would have to say that a gri gri is a more technical device and must be use by expert belayers only. Plate devices on the other hand are idiot proof… …let go and your buddy decks!

[Paul3eb]

marathon: i would support the grigri decsion. but that's me. take the time and teach her. honestly, it only take a little while. or, if you don't feel ok with them lowering you on gri gri, rappel.

kdelap: not that i doubt your statistics but i would like to see them, too, out of curiousity. where could i find these numbers?

[Meadows]

So I was climbing with this awesome chic last week who decked last year when she got lowered from a gri gri (new person on belay). The fall resulted in a broken arm. She thought of a cool analogy that might help you all in teaching the use of a gri gri: when opening the cam to lower, think of it as a light dimmer. Some think of it as a light switch that you flip on/off.

[KD]

i like the 'ol gas-and-brakes analogy

[Sunshine]

You coming this weekend Eathan? I can sell you mine.It never gets used.

Damnit. I wish I would have known. There isn't a place anywhere down there to buy a Gri-Gri. I tried. Miguel's, nope. Matt's, nope. Marks, nope. I really wanted to buy one.

You can buy a Gri-Gri at Torrent gear shop which is at Cfiff View.

[quicksilver]

Alan Evil,
Here is the scenario that has happened at our gym and at least two others. The climber is being lowered and for whatever reason decides to grab a hold and/or reestablish his or her self on the wall. the belay is now unweighted but the inexperienced belayer is still holding the gri-gri handle open. Climber lets go & catches the belayer by surprise. Belayer instintively pulls back on the handle, loses control with the break hand and the climber decks. Typically the climber is much heavier than the belayer. In our case a Father and his 13 yr. old son. We teach a two handed belay and lowering technique. Both hands on the rope at all times.
Does not translate as well as the more traditional pinch and slide method if and when the person wants to move to lead belaying but is a safer method of top rope belaying. We only use ATCs. Experienced climbers can use a gri-gri if they demonstrate proper knowledge. As for the reference to a tendency for experienced climbers not to be helpful to new
climbers. I have personally introduced too many people to count to the joy of climbing. Josh and I work very hard at making everyone feel welcome in the climbing community as this is one of the great aspects of climbing. All things being equal I would prefer a gri-gri belay and a rap off if the belayer is unsure of what they are doing. Having decked from 40 feet I perhaps am a little paranoid. Having been in the gym business for over 7 years I can attest to what crazy things people do on belay. Just last week I was at the gym climbing with a friend on the night we are closed to the public. A young couple came in not knowing we were closed on Monday and since they had waivers on file I let them climb since they were there. My partner recognized the young man as a new gym volunteer. He immediately started up the lead wall. His girl friend was using an ATC but would take he brake hand off and hold the body of the ATC as you would a gri-gri when she fed out rope. The climber was totally unaware of this so I grab the rope as a back up, had the climber lower off
and explained the situation. What's up with that ?? One time Josh looked up at a young climber who had decided to sit on our rappel deck (24feet).
Josh noticed that his fig. 8 knot was tied to a gear loop instead of his belay loop. Josh soloed up the wall and tied him in correctly. You have to watch all the time. It stands to reason that with all the climbers outdoors now that some of this stuff goes on there too. On occasion I have spoken up outside to strangers about a dangerous technique and get the dreaded kiss my ass look. Overall most people are happy if you help them but even in the gym some people take offense. Why is anyones guess. We always tell people during the belay lesson that they need to seek further instruction before moving outdoors. Gotta go. Thinking about this makes me want to sell my gym - Interested? Just kidding . Have a great Memorial Day Weekend.

[J-Rock]

Alan Evil,
All things being equal I would prefer a gri-gri belay and a rap off if the belayer is unsure of what they are doing.

Me too!