Posted: Mon May 09, 2005 10:52 pm
sure it counts a lot. jenny and i will be there for the first time. it sounds like lots of fun.longlegsrule wrote:new river rondezvous...maybe? does this count?
RRC Archives
The old Redriverclimbing.com Forums
https://rrcarchives.com/forums/
Summer Climbing Plans
Page 2 of 5
Posted: Mon May 09, 2005 10:53 pm
stick with it - it scares almost everybody sometime. lots of good people around here to climb with.batscout wrote:I am just hoping to learn more climbing and meet folks. Very new to this and don't know anyone. Climbing scares the crap out of me but I like it more each time.
Posted: Mon May 09, 2005 11:52 pm
This route description sounds freakin' awesome! Does anybody have any photos of this route? I get a big fat boner when I read descriptions like this one!
From the Falcon Guide to Arizona:
Abracadaver (III 5.11a) 5 pitches.
The Stronghold's super classic, must-do route--sustained and airy with varied cracks from finger to offwidth and a hard face pitch. First ascended by Mike McEwen, Steve Grossman, and Dave Baker in 1975 and rated 5.9! Route ascends the central crack system up the north face.
Pitch 1: Work up a right-angling, off-width groove (5.10a) past a bolt and belay at a 2-bolt anchor below an obvious dihedral.
Pitch 2: Grunt up an awkward off-width crack and squeeze chimney (5.9 and left side in) past 1 bolt and a fixed copperhead to a belay stance where the crack narrows. Use careful rope management here to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack below.
Pitch 3: 3-star pitch! Lieback, jam, and stem up the thin finger crack (5.11a) in the dihedral to a roof. Traverse left below the roof and exit onto a spacious sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: Jam a thin, disjointed crack (5.10d) that leads up right to a good hand crack. Follow to Friendly Flake, a large, semidetached flake, and jam the right side to a belay stance on the flake.
Pitch 5: Climb a short, left-facing corner and then edge up the exposed final face (5.11a) past 2 bolts to the rounded summit.
Descent: 3 rappels
Rack: Full rack with Stoppers, TCUs, and Friends, plus quickdraws, slings, and 2 ropes.
From the Falcon Guide to Arizona:
Abracadaver (III 5.11a) 5 pitches.
The Stronghold's super classic, must-do route--sustained and airy with varied cracks from finger to offwidth and a hard face pitch. First ascended by Mike McEwen, Steve Grossman, and Dave Baker in 1975 and rated 5.9! Route ascends the central crack system up the north face.
Pitch 1: Work up a right-angling, off-width groove (5.10a) past a bolt and belay at a 2-bolt anchor below an obvious dihedral.
Pitch 2: Grunt up an awkward off-width crack and squeeze chimney (5.9 and left side in) past 1 bolt and a fixed copperhead to a belay stance where the crack narrows. Use careful rope management here to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack below.
Pitch 3: 3-star pitch! Lieback, jam, and stem up the thin finger crack (5.11a) in the dihedral to a roof. Traverse left below the roof and exit onto a spacious sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: Jam a thin, disjointed crack (5.10d) that leads up right to a good hand crack. Follow to Friendly Flake, a large, semidetached flake, and jam the right side to a belay stance on the flake.
Pitch 5: Climb a short, left-facing corner and then edge up the exposed final face (5.11a) past 2 bolts to the rounded summit.
Descent: 3 rappels
Rack: Full rack with Stoppers, TCUs, and Friends, plus quickdraws, slings, and 2 ropes.
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 1:04 pm
Offwidth master Dave Baker coasting up the "5.9" second pitch of Abracadaver on the first ascent.
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 1:25 pm
Cool! Is there a photo of the 3rd pitch? Can we go there too (in the fall)? Please! Please!
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 1:29 pm
Kinda thinking about a trip to vedauwoo this summer. Or maybe SLC and rifle instead.young'n climber wrote:Im going out to wyoming in late july through early august. Wes, you should go too, i know you've gone out that way a couple times.
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 1:34 pm
Only if we swing by Mt Lemmon and climb Leapin' Lizards and Arizona Flyways!J-Rock wrote:Cool! Is there a photo of the 3rd pitch? Can we go there too (in the fall)? Please! Please!
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 1:42 pm
luv dem trad boots 
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 2:26 pm
Have seen pics of that place (vedauwoo) - it looks beautiful. Is it a cool temp. place in the summer?Wes wrote: Kinda thinking about a trip to vedauwoo this summer. Or maybe SLC and rifle instead.
Posted: Tue May 10, 2005 3:04 pm
....:::thinking about all the blood i lost on that rock:::...KD wrote:Have seen pics of that place (vedauwoo) - it looks beautiful. Is it a cool temp. place in the summer?Wes wrote: Kinda thinking about a trip to vedauwoo this summer. Or maybe SLC and rifle instead.