sure it counts a lot. jenny and i will be there for the first time. it sounds like lots of fun.longlegsrule wrote:new river rondezvous...maybe? does this count?
Summer Climbing Plans
This route description sounds freakin' awesome! Does anybody have any photos of this route? I get a big fat boner when I read descriptions like this one!
From the Falcon Guide to Arizona:
Abracadaver (III 5.11a) 5 pitches.
The Stronghold's super classic, must-do route--sustained and airy with varied cracks from finger to offwidth and a hard face pitch. First ascended by Mike McEwen, Steve Grossman, and Dave Baker in 1975 and rated 5.9! Route ascends the central crack system up the north face.
Pitch 1: Work up a right-angling, off-width groove (5.10a) past a bolt and belay at a 2-bolt anchor below an obvious dihedral.
Pitch 2: Grunt up an awkward off-width crack and squeeze chimney (5.9 and left side in) past 1 bolt and a fixed copperhead to a belay stance where the crack narrows. Use careful rope management here to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack below.
Pitch 3: 3-star pitch! Lieback, jam, and stem up the thin finger crack (5.11a) in the dihedral to a roof. Traverse left below the roof and exit onto a spacious sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: Jam a thin, disjointed crack (5.10d) that leads up right to a good hand crack. Follow to Friendly Flake, a large, semidetached flake, and jam the right side to a belay stance on the flake.
Pitch 5: Climb a short, left-facing corner and then edge up the exposed final face (5.11a) past 2 bolts to the rounded summit.
Descent: 3 rappels
Rack: Full rack with Stoppers, TCUs, and Friends, plus quickdraws, slings, and 2 ropes.
From the Falcon Guide to Arizona:
Abracadaver (III 5.11a) 5 pitches.
The Stronghold's super classic, must-do route--sustained and airy with varied cracks from finger to offwidth and a hard face pitch. First ascended by Mike McEwen, Steve Grossman, and Dave Baker in 1975 and rated 5.9! Route ascends the central crack system up the north face.
Pitch 1: Work up a right-angling, off-width groove (5.10a) past a bolt and belay at a 2-bolt anchor below an obvious dihedral.
Pitch 2: Grunt up an awkward off-width crack and squeeze chimney (5.9 and left side in) past 1 bolt and a fixed copperhead to a belay stance where the crack narrows. Use careful rope management here to keep the rope from getting stuck in the crack below.
Pitch 3: 3-star pitch! Lieback, jam, and stem up the thin finger crack (5.11a) in the dihedral to a roof. Traverse left below the roof and exit onto a spacious sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 4: Jam a thin, disjointed crack (5.10d) that leads up right to a good hand crack. Follow to Friendly Flake, a large, semidetached flake, and jam the right side to a belay stance on the flake.
Pitch 5: Climb a short, left-facing corner and then edge up the exposed final face (5.11a) past 2 bolts to the rounded summit.
Descent: 3 rappels
Rack: Full rack with Stoppers, TCUs, and Friends, plus quickdraws, slings, and 2 ropes.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
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squeezindlemmon
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squeezindlemmon
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longlegsrule
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