RRC Archives

Scar Tissue is the easiest 12a in the red, probably the steepest too!

Check your grip is good, as are buddha hole and ethics. Bare Metal is also a good one, but a bit harder then some.

What about Ro? Or wait, is that thing really an 11d?

Anyway, for me "Hippocrite" felt easy for the grade and "Too Many Puppies" felt hard for the grade. "Go Easy Billy Clyde" and "Till the Cows Come Home", and "The Happy Fisherman" are also good.

Here are four of my favorites: shameless spray...

"Expresso" is a really easy 12a at Muir. It is basically a V4 boulder problem to a 5.9 jughaul.

"Immaculate Deception" (12a) is a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11 arete, to a 5.10 jug haul.

"Manifest Destiny" (my favorite 12a at the Red) is a 5.11 to a V4 boulder problem out a roof to a 5.10 jug haul.

"Buddha Slept" (12a mixed) is a V4 boulder problem start to a 5.9 crack to a V2 fingercrack move near the top and the thing is about 100 feet tall.

Well that gives me ten or so 12a's to work on, that should keep me busy for the next decade or so. Wes, you climb too hard, Bare Metal Teen as a good low end 12a? A bit harder? I've always heard that was one of the harder 12a's, if not the hardest, in the Red. You trying to sandbag me?

Sco Bro, Bare Metal is kinda tough (took me a few tries), but not as hard as chainsaw. Besides, now that you did a 5.12, you should be picking training routes that will get you stronger, not trying to pad your tick list with soft 12a's.

Too many puppies is crazy hard for me at the top. I can;t clip that last bolt because I can;t levitate (scobro on the other hand is like David Blaine, mo fo can levitate and fight off giant jumping gorilla spiders!) Definately a cool route and great arete climbing. I wish that underclinmb was still there at the top so you could run to it and clip the bolt.

Check out Mama Benson at The Darkside and Nicorette at Military.

Nicorette is one of my all time favorite routes.

Mj

Both are good suggestion

The Gift.