Dropped

[rockclimbingdude]

for some reason as great as i think the gri-gri is, I think it makes people lazy on belay, Im old school still love the fig8. plus the times that i have lead with a newby belayin with a gri-gri seems like i am always getting shorted on clips cuz they cant figure out how to feed slack with out it lockin up on them.

[Alan Evil]

for some reason as great as i think the gri-gri is, I think it makes people lazy on belay, Im old school still love the fig8. plus the times that i have lead with a newby belayin with a gri-gri seems like i am always getting shorted on clips cuz they cant figure out how to feed slack with out it lockin up on them.

I would say that's more the leader's fault for not explaining how to feed rope rapidly (in any of several effective ways) through the grisgris. One way is to use the "brake hand" to squeeze the mechanism (this sometimes allows a snarl to make it to the device). Another way is to hold the "brake hand up high, lifting the rope to feed with the other hand so the locking mech. doesn't engage. You can get a snarl in the rope with a figure 8 as easily (or, many would say, WAY easier) than most other belay devices. I don't care what belayers use as long as they know how and are comfortable doing it. Hell, if they want to they can wrap the rope around their body multiple times, as long as they put a 'biner in the link somewhere so when they get yanked up into the air they won't come unwrapped.

[Don McGlone]

Morehead climbers are notoriously bad spotters... at least in my case. I've bottomed out so many times with these guys my arese has lost all padding.

Its not just your case. A good morehead spot makes every problem feel like a highball.

One way to cure that, Lame Wades - don't fall.