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Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 6:39 pm
by Wes
pawilkes wrote:i don't understand how people think sunshine and moonbeam are good lines. i thought they were choss piles of aqward move with no flow to them at all. i should take that back, i only got on sunshine which i was told was a better line than moonbeam and made up my mind that i had no desire to get on moonbeam.
Sunshine has a killer flow, if you use the right holds. The bottom half feels like a really good v0 highball boulder problem to me.
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 6:43 pm
by Yasmeen
paul3eb wrote:please stay away from brother stair.. if it remains vacant for long enough, we can issue a petition to have it blown off the rock. thank you
You are my hero.
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:22 pm
by Guest
Merrick, that was mean to say Drop the Anchor is fun... That thing blows more than a whore with a crack habit.
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:26 pm
by Wes
Sandy wrote:Merrick, that was mean to say Drop the Anchor is fun... That thing blows more than a whore with a crack habit.
I think it is pretty cool. Well defined crux (unusual for the grade), and the top is cool stemming. Maybe a bit heady if you are just starting into the 8's and 9's though.
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 7:37 pm
by merrick
some of us like cheap crack whore blow jobs........i mean routes like drop the anchor.
Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 9:10 pm
by peteypablo
Thanks everyone, i will definately give sunshine and moonbeam a try, so if you find some booty half way up please mail to Richmond, no but i appreciate the suggestions and i will have to agree with paul about brother stair, not a fan of it, i will also try the other recommended routes.
Thanks -Pete
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:54 pm
by ReachHigh
Ascentionist wrote:Manic Impression is a good first 5.10.
Chimp is too. Get on Put Me in the Zoo at the Zoo, low crux, well-protected.
Funkadelic next to it was my First 5.10 lead, it feels more like 5.8 if your >6'
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 2:26 pm
by strum
Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 7:20 pm
by steep4me
pogue ethics at phantasia is supposedly 10a, but actually 5.9. very fun with a little well-protected crux about 1/2 way up. Then 5.6 climbing to the top.
Sunshine and Moonbeam are fun (only an opinion)
Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 1:15 am
by busty
What about the routes at Torrent with the Boy Scout names? Are these ok routes for beginning sport leading? Are these even open to everyone? - I vaguely remember a post recommending people get permission for these.
