Diamond in the Crack at Jewel Pinnacle

Having problems finding a crag or a route?
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Ascentionist
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Post by Ascentionist »

Best crossing is at the mouth of Gladie Creek. Just upstream of hte mouth is best. As far as hiking out the ridge from CT you definitely need a topo and it is still difficult and requires some 4th/5th class scrambling and/or rappelling to get to the base of the ridge to access the beginning of the climb. If you plan on hiking in from CT leave yourself plenty of time to get in and out. Once you know the way its pretty easy, but that first time will be an epic. I recommend going that way unless the river is really low.

As far as "walking" off the backside you can't. Its a 4th class scramble.

ANd i have seen someone rig a slingshot TR with one rope from the bolt anchors. I don't know how long their rope was though. And the guy led the whole route as one pitch. But it wouldn't be too hard to take two ropes, set up the second pitch on TR off the bolts, rap down and set up the first pitch from natural gear (great belay on small cams or TCUs in a horizontal).
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Crankmas
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Post by Crankmas »

a 70 meter rope will allow you to rap off those bolts to the ground, the only problem is the rope will not pull, I assume you could TR with a 60 meter cord if you extend the anchors off the bolts, the walk off the back is not too bad though, bottom line, cross the river at the y junction area, actully right of it, walk left along the river on the faint path until it heads up hill, go up the hill lead Diamond in the Crack
Andrew
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Post by Andrew »

I rapped off on a 60 all the way to the ground with rope SSSStretch. But it took two people to pull the rope, and it was still hard to pull it. We hiked in from chimney top with a friend who had already figured out the way with a topo, and we still weren't sure if we knew if we were going the right way at times. And yes, there is some 4th class going in from CT.
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Ascentionist
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Post by Ascentionist »

You could extend the bolts with webbing and rap. YOu could actually do two rappels on the north side (second rappel from a tree on the ledge). The "walk-down" isn't too bad. You can scramble down to the large ledge and traverse east (right as you face the pinnacle) to the top of Copperhead and rappel from its anchor tree and then TR that route as well. Beware: Copperhead is aptly named.
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Jeff
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Post by Jeff »

The guides descripion if I remember corrctly is very vague.
When you are ready to walk off, Gladie is to your back, you walk/scramble off to the left, drop down a bit to the ground, and head a little further away from Gladie and you will see a steep trail/slide on your left.
Strider
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Post by Strider »

From Chimney Top Road the distance is not a problem. The difficulty is finding the right ridge to walk out for Jewel. The last time I went (several years ago) there had been a fire and the area was overgrown with briars, making the approach very painful, er... I mean epic.
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Ascentionist
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Post by Ascentionist »

Yes, the faint trail is even fainter now.
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Snowpuppy
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Post by Snowpuppy »

A nice bushwack!!!
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dipsi
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Post by dipsi »

As I recall coming down was really fast for me! :lol: Right, Jesse?
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ynot
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Post by ynot »

I still shudder when I think about it.
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