RRC Archives

Wes wrote:lordjim_2001, Why should I buy draws when people retire perfectly good gear well before it's time?

Wes

true dat.
I always wanted to say that
I think Sandy is right though, you just need to follow some n00bs around soon and pick up their bail draws with your squid

M

lordjim_2001 wrote:

Wes wrote:lordjim_2001, Why should I buy draws when people retire perfectly good gear well before it's time?

Wes

true dat.
I always wanted to say that
I think Sandy is right though, you just need to follow some n00bs around soon and pick up their bail draws with your squid

M

Like I need a squid to booty gear from the slab wall at roadside. I could have had two draws last time I was there, but finished the routes for the people and returned all thier gear. And you say N00B like you aren't one yourself. How many redpoints/leads do you have now?

Wes

0. Still sitting on zero. Hopefully this month I'll get one or two.

Don't retire draws until after they fail, twice.

Whenever I need new ones I just take my stick clip to the Lode and perform some "natural habitat restoration". Speaking of the Lode, does anyone have any idea how old/reliable some of those draws must be?

I think some wouldn't mind being replaced. I was climbing next to allah one day when he pointed out that one of the draws on his route was "standing" straight out from the wall-- parallel to the ground.

Before I knew better, I retired some draw dog bones that I had for a couple years. Gave them to a friend. He then pulled out a twisted mess of booty 'biners and quicklinks to go with them. He then equiped Flour Power with them. That was about 4 years ago, and I think they are still there.

so i guess the answer to my question is that draws will go a long way as long as there is not significant ware on them and some of you replace gear every year.

thanks for the tip.

Many of the "project" draws on a wall are the old draws that the climbers didn't mind "getting rid of". They weaken with time, UV exposure, temperature extremes, etc. and many have badly grooved biners. The ones that came off of "Paranoia" were unbelievably bad. Ask Mark Meyers if you can take a look at them to see for yourself. At there Solarium a few of the steep 5.13's are going to be equipped with steel cable permadraws. This is a much safer alternative and the deterioration process will be slowed significantly.

By the way, Friends of Muir Valley (contact Squeezindlemmon) is taking donations for old ropes, biners, webbing, etc. for rigging new routes, gaining clifftop access, etc. They will be put to good use and new routes of ALL grades and styles will continue to be added regularly and you will be informed of them regularly.

Cool I can donate my rope when I get a new one. The old one is still usable, just fuzzy.

Let's get Weber to test some old draws!