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Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:38 pm
by hearn
I think father and son at Global Village would be a good one. It'll take all the gear you can give it and the stances to place from are absolutely solid.

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:40 pm
by mazzystr
try bedtime for bonzo, 5.6***

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:40 pm
by lordjim_2001
I'm going to try the first pitch of Turrent as my first trad lead soon.

Now about that sandbag. If it wasn't for that boulder at the base I'd go for 5.2-3. It didn't seem that hard as my first crack climb on TR when I was with team ghetto.

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:54 pm
by dhoyne
diggum wrote:Scared the shit outta me. Bad first trad lead experience.

Hated it!! I need a fun, easy trad route to try to lead or I may give up on it. Any suggestions? Maybe linustgl will change his mind & get on something more fun too. :wink:
Try Motha @ Roadside. It's trad climbing for sport climbers. All face climbing, good stances, tons of places to put pro.

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:55 pm
by rickardodaniel
I need a fun, easy trad route to try to lead or I may give up on it. Any suggestions?
Diggum; American Crack 5.4** Fortress Wall

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 6:59 pm
by linustgl
I made it up to where the crack flares, wasn't a bad route, The biggest piece I had at the time though was a #3 BD. Looking at the picture, it looks like I was only 10 feet from the top. But now ya'll got me thinking about that top section... hhuuummmmm....

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:49 pm
by hearn
i heard Motha would take lots of gear, but it was all shitty pockets that you really wouldn't want to trust. Was this wrong? If so I think it'd be a little heady for one you your first leads.

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:37 pm
by dhoyne
There are tons of very good pockets. Excellent opportunity to try out those Metolius 3 cams or tri-cams.

You can place more gear than you can carry there's so many pockets.

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:44 pm
by Caspian
I wouldn't want to fall on 95% of those pockets.

Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:48 pm
by strum
hehe, that crack, ahhhhhh, the memories, how many times have I been at Fortress and heard some one yelling

"5.2 MY ASS!!!" :lol: