RRC Archives

Convenience.

What a lovely word. It permeates our society most completely now. Right down to our recreational pursuits.

Lets go do some wicked hard climbing...but I don't want to walk up hill to do it.

Lets climb a trad route, but I want to be able to clip bolt anchors.

Dude, it is roadside! It isn't adventure climbing. You can SEE THE FUCKING ROAD FROM THE TOP OF THE ROUTES!

Just go play on you backwoods choss and tell yourself that you are better then every one else.

And how many times are you going to change your name?


Wes

I agree with you about "convenience" becoming annoying in modern day society, but I still believe anchors on single pitch trad routes are good idea (as long as they are placed properly and they don't take away too much from the cool moves and experience of the route). If you want to experience some adventure or build your own anchors then go climb multi-pitch. Two small bolts at the top are probably better than damaging the trees on the top and leaving lots of manky webbing. Or trespassing on the private property that is often above many climbing areas and causing more potential access problems... Besides they are less of an eyesore and last much longer.

Don't know...maybe a few more.

Ok, I'll go play somewhere else. Can I take those bolts on top of FFD in case I find somewhere better to put them?

This is another example of the importance of responsible reporting: If the CAC (or RRGCC) had a way to keep track of anchor replacements and upgrades then we would know who to contact about these anchors and this problem could probably be avoided also. Perhaps this could be on the agenda for discussion at one of the next meetings?

I would suggest that the 5.3 by C Sharp have anchors. You are forced to share with C Sharp. It causes problems on crowded weekends.

But FFD has an adequate set or rap anchors off the ledge. Granted, they put the rappeller close to JFJ, but it is the responsibility of the rappeller to make sure his or her rope doesn't cause problems below. And there is very little loose rock on that ledge. That's not a good enough excuse to place anchors there.

That traverse is pretty cool, well protected witha good view and ends in bomber anchors. Why deny the 5.8 leader of that experience?

You are walking across a big ledge. Over a sport route that you bolted, that used to be a TR. So, who is the one putting in convenice hardware now?

If I can knock out a window in a passing car with a golf ball and a driver, then it is not adventure climbing.

Adventure climbing translation: I have an overwelming desire to spray, but because I am lazy and or scared, I can't put up spray worthy numbers. So I will do some chossy well protected 5.8 in the middle of nowhere, rap of a tree, and call myself an adventure climber. If you want adventure climbing, whitesides is a much better choice then roadside.

Wes

Ascentionist wrote: That traverse is pretty cool, well protected witha good view and ends in bomber anchors. Why deny the 5.8 leader of that experience?

With anchors there, no one is stoping you from making the traverse. You can still climb the route however you like.

But the traverse is lost to future climbers.

Wes, my point is not that all climbing should be adventure climbing, but that bolt anchors aren't always necessary. And FFD does not NEED anchors. Its a clean top out, with usable anchors (though not in the PERFECT place) and a unique experience in climbing it. Lets just dummy all climbing down until we're installing wheelchair ramps and padded rails.

Our society is generation by generation tunring softer and softer. Why coddle everyone? Why do you need anchors there so badly Wes? Have a bad experience on FFD once? What's the big deal? Do you need the bolts? Are your anchor building skills that embarassing? I could give you some pointers.

There is a Fixed Anchor topic on the RRGCC Forum: http://www.rrgcc.org/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=10