RRC Archives

Are you all sure they were on nevermore? The hangerless bolts go right up the wall there, and I wouldn't see why you would have new bolts off to the side, unless they were for some kinda new route. I haven't been up there for several years, so I don't remember it all that well.

I didn't see any bolts but I did a direct variation in a single pitch. That variation would be +R -M.

Danny, there were a couple bolts, around 2/3 of the way up. Kinda sketchy. I think one of them was your first piece in ~75feet, followed 10ft later by a cam. That variation was X (M).

Damn, you mean I clipped a freakin bolt? What a friggin wuss.

I wouldn't say that. Ive seen that "bolt" .I couldnt get a nut wire to stay on that worthless 1/4 inch rusted stud.

Yea but it sounds like there was a slammer cam a few feet away. What a pathetic piece of horse shit.

You ever think of cloning yourself so you could have your clone put the rope up for you on those 10d X routes? That way if he gets killed you're still fine. Just a thought.
Get your Danny Clone here! We could sell a bunch of them to all kinds of X sport type people.

That's a thought but I'd have to download the miserable childhood program into his nervous system.

A few hundred feet left of Nevermore is this awesome offwidth dihedral with a hand/roof crack followed by face climbing to topout the second pitch. It's killer.

Is Nevermore worth the time required?

Nevermore is a great route, in the sense that it's high adventure, and the position is spectacular. But I think I agree with Wes, once is enough. Hackworth and I did the the FA of some variation to the start, but it was the wide crack finish that got my attention. Near the top I was way too run out for comfort, and wasn't feeling all that secure in the wide crack. The pucker factor wasn't off the chart, but it was significant.