Page 2 of 3
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:42 pm
by Stewy911
Is that route in the picture all-mixed 11a @ muir? Oh and i htink that placement would definatyely hold.
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:42 pm
by Sunshine
Wow! That's a shiney unit. I know he didn't borrow that from Barry B.
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 10:09 pm
by J-Rock
I took that photo and watched as J.J. red-pointed "All Mixed Up". The crack was pretty wide and flared there, but J.J. knows what he is doing. Originally he used a #5 Camalot in that section. Anyway, earlier that day I was following the route on TR and shaking out from a good jug and as I flipped the rope out of my way that big #5 cam fell out from ~30-40 above me and landing right on my arm (it wasn't even clipped to the rope)! Much to my surprise, it didn't cause any injury or even leave a mark. I picked it up and clipped it to my harness and then continued on my way. Later when J.J. led the route (I took photos of him while wire brushing "Boltergeist") I noticed that he was no longer using the #5 cam in that section...
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 1:26 am
by Jeff
I was climbing the route to the left while JJ was getting his groove on the pictured route.
He was in full control, and the placement was good.
He didn't fall on it.
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 3:14 am
by rockclimbingdude
It'll probably hold. At least a light fall.
Probably and light fall are two words that shouldnt exist in this sport.
![Razz :P](./images/smilies/icon_razz.gif)
Looks like a good placement to me, looks like the back half of the cam is in a little bit better than the front two. Looks like they are almost fully extended, not much surface contact. Hope it doesnt walk out any.
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 1:06 pm
by J-Rock
I have no doubt about J.J.'s trad abilities. He's a little scary to watch sometimes, but like Jeff said, he is in full control. I'll climb with him any time and any place. He is definitely a true climber and a great guy.
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 1:24 pm
by overhung
Who is this he-man? Does he post here?
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2005 1:25 pm
by J-Rock
Nope, he doesn't post here. I'll post a better picture of him tonight after work and you will probably recognize him....
Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:50 pm
by Huggybone
Would it hold? Its bomber IF the lobes are flush with the rock. If the cam face is only touching the rock on one edge of the cam lobes, I would not trust it.
Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 11:10 pm
by marathonmedic
I'm thinking a #1 might go better deep in there.