I took that photo and watched as J.J. red-pointed "All Mixed Up". The crack was pretty wide and flared there, but J.J. knows what he is doing. Originally he used a #5 Camalot in that section. Anyway, earlier that day I was following the route on TR and shaking out from a good jug and as I flipped the rope out of my way that big #5 cam fell out from ~30-40 above me and landing right on my arm (it wasn't even clipped to the rope)! Much to my surprise, it didn't cause any injury or even leave a mark. I picked it up and clipped it to my harness and then continued on my way. Later when J.J. led the route (I took photos of him while wire brushing "Boltergeist") I noticed that he was no longer using the #5 cam in that section...
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
I was climbing the route to the left while JJ was getting his groove on the pictured route.
He was in full control, and the placement was good.
He didn't fall on it.
Probably and light fall are two words that shouldnt exist in this sport. Looks like a good placement to me, looks like the back half of the cam is in a little bit better than the front two. Looks like they are almost fully extended, not much surface contact. Hope it doesnt walk out any.
listen to the river sing sweet songs to rock my soul! ~~Jerry Garcia
I have no doubt about J.J.'s trad abilities. He's a little scary to watch sometimes, but like Jeff said, he is in full control. I'll climb with him any time and any place. He is definitely a true climber and a great guy.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
Would it hold? Its bomber IF the lobes are flush with the rock. If the cam face is only touching the rock on one edge of the cam lobes, I would not trust it.
"Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water."
Looks like a good placement to me, looks like the back half of the cam is in a little bit better than the front two. Looks like they are almost fully extended, not much surface contact. Hope it doesnt walk out any.