Mixed route at Torrent

Access, Rehab Projects, Derbyfests and more...
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Yep, that is the dark city. Looks chossy and crappy, but is actually a pretty fun route. It does have pretty good gear, but it is a pain to place and engineer the runners. With a few more well placed bolts, it would be a much easier route to lead. Personally, I don't have issues with bolted cracks, and have climbed several that were quite good (wild iris/sinks and potrero, amoung others).

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

I think I'm still a traddy at heart, but I admit that I have probably placed a few bolts in places where there could probably be decent gear (particularly in pockets, seams, small horizontals, etc). I've also noticed that many of our mixed routes do not receive the traffic that they deserve. I often wonder if they would receive more ascents if there were more bolts on them...

Truth is, if we wanted to be really hardcore about it, then many of the classic pocketed sport climbs at Red River could probably be protected with tri-cams in pockets, tcus in horizontals, small wires in seams, etc. I've seen "The Return of Chris Snyder" led this way, as well as many other routes. Many would have some exciting run outs and a few R-rated sections. If this were standard practice at the Red then there would not be so many safe and enjoyable sport routes. Besides we don't exactly have the most solid sandstone around and it's not too easy to place gear on strenuous and pumpy overhangs while trying to "beat the clock".

However, I definitely could not do it next to an obviously bomber crack. On the other hand, if the gear isn't bomber then I could probably justify the placement of a bolt. Everybody has their own style and ethics and are free to choose their own path. If future climbers don't want to clip the bolts then they can choose to ignore them and lead the route in their own style.
Last edited by J-Rock on Wed Mar 16, 2005 5:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
haas
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

Gotcha, I know the route then. Yeah it did look like a pile. Glad to hear it's better. I remember the start looking runout but the gear looked fine higher up... that was of course me looking from the ground.

I know the cracks you are talking about Wes at Wild Iris/Sinks and I thought the bolts should not have been added personally, but hey what do I know. It is a very slippery slope indeed
batguano
Posts: 123
Joined: Wed Oct 09, 2002 4:24 pm

Post by batguano »

The notion that routes should be made as easy as possible is absurd. Why dumb it down for the common denominator? Are there not enough bolted lines at torrent already?
mixed faces are one thing. but, this thing is a big right facing corner with a crack, right?
However, Sunshine did the FA, the route is on private property and I respect sunshine's decision to do what he wants with his route. I know he just wants more people to get on it. So in an effort to dissuade yall from bolting this crack, I am willing to take action. Leave it the way it is and I will promise to 'trad' dark city twice a year for the next 5 years. not only will I climb it, but I will spray copiously about it when I do. I will post photos, stroke egos and spread the glory of this climb throughout the known world. or at least throughout torrent falls. deal?
weather is occurring.
haas
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

I think if nothing else, more hard trad lines gives the Red more overall respect as it is constantly belittled by climbers out west, saying it is only a sport climbers destination and as Sharma once said the routes are "crimp ladders"
Zspider
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:02 pm

Post by Zspider »

Bolt that bitch! Mixed routes suck.
Stewy911
Posts: 649
Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2003 2:27 am

Post by Stewy911 »

If the rock is shit and the gear is suspect bolt the thing. Where exactly is this at?
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Sunshine, if you bolt this route, it might be the beginning of the end. Think about it: Locuses, plauges, 40 years of darkness. Would you want that on you consious?

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Sunshine
Posts: 567
Joined: Sun May 02, 2004 5:20 pm

Post by Sunshine »

The name of the route speaks for itself. DARK CITY. Just like the the "reality" in the movie, it is not what it appears. If bolts were to appear, for some, it would just be a different reality. After some of the stuff I read here, all that seems to be necessary is just believe it and it is real.
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
Caspian
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 9:28 pm

Post by Caspian »

Sunshine wrote:The name of the route speaks for itself. DARK CITY. Just like the the "reality" in the movie, it is not what it appears. If bolts were to appear, for some, it would just be a different reality. After some of the stuff I read here, all that seems to be necessary is just believe it and it is real.
I think I have heard some sort of a quote like that before....but at the present...it escapes me....
"how ironic....now he's blind after a life of enjoying being able to see."~Homer
Post Reply