RRC Archives

Toy wrote: They have the middle route listed at 11c!

That's what John's book had it listed as. I believe holds broke off of it awhile ago. I thought it was much harder too.

To add my two bits worth. The left most route is great, 11c would be an appropriate rating. We didn't climb the right most route, but it did looked 12a from the ground, for whatever that's worth. The middle route, well, it must be missing something, because it ain't 11c. Both I and a friend of mine (who climbs 5.13) were completely shut down. I'm not too bad a boulderer and could not imagine doing the move. Pulling the roof would be V8. So, essentially the route goes like this: good moves down low, lots of fun in the 11c range, 5 move V8 bouler problem roof, top it off with a bit of 5.10+ climbing. I think it's some sort of cruel Porter joke. Ahh, I think I hear Porter laughing right now.

Pulling the roof is not the problem. That involves several hard, but not impossible, moves in succession. The problem is once you get above the roof! Talk about dropping the hammer! It is a shame that the moves are that difficult right in the middle because it just doesn't match the rest of the route. Super-cool 5.11 moves down low and 5.10 face climbing above the boulder problem.

Toy, I did that route and thought it was about 5.10b. Your lack of gym climbing during these past few months has obviously turned you into a weak ass son of a bitch. Why don't you go do some pull-ups on a tree in your backyard?

Better than usual. Typically it only takes 3 or 4 posts before a thread deteriorates. 11 this time. And the route probably is 10b if you use that tiny, hook-like jimmy of yours to bat hook up the thing.

Would it be possible to install a 5.8 hand crack in the hard section? I have never put up a crack, but I am willing to try!

I've heard arguments against chipping holds, but I've never heard of anyone protesting chipping an entire crack.

It would be like Michaelangelo said of his "David". It was always there. It just had to let it out.

Sunshine, be the artist that your soul longs for you to become. Free the crack from the rock that holds it fast.