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Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2002 9:43 pm
by SCIN
I think Hugh just calls them out because he can't get those 10 foot chicken bones to fit in the huecos everyone else uses.

Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2002 10:05 pm
by rmcfall
Now Horatio, I must say I am more than a little impressed. Your skills as a virtual detective finding that kneebar. What will I do now...

If your really interested in something like this, why not pay attention to the many 5.14 "ascents" of convicted...

Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2002 10:58 pm
by Yasmeen
Where's the pic? Did I miss it in the photo gallery?

Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2002 11:05 pm
by Artsay
What are you talking about with Convicted...is there a rest on it or something that people think is cheating? Is Reliquary in the same category? What other routes are you talking about then? I mean, I can think of a ton of routes that have good rests if you want 'em; Is Fuzzy's classic no hands rest off route? What about the rest on Ale-8 One? Are some routes like this and some aren't? I'm not trying to challenge you guys, I am just really interested in understanding this logic.

Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 12:19 am
by Horatio Felacio
rob, rob, rob. i pay more attention to spraying than anyone i know. how did you send convicted? it seems like you haven't paid attention to the people who say using the kneebar on it is harder than not.

what about hand jams? i get more back off those than kneebars. are these "off" too? what about resting on jugs? a good set of jugs makes for some great recovery too, i've found. heel hooks? what about strength and weakness of different climbers? how does the rating system work with all this? do we rely on the FA to provide necessary equipment, rating, and sequence? what do you think of straight outta compton using the same hueco that is off limits on tuskan raider? what about appollo reed and mercy seat at the NRG? i assume you've done those without the kneebar and think they are .12 d and .13 a right? Also, born on the 4th of july at obed. it has a legbar-hand jam combination of all things! but i guess you've sent those no problem and thought it was easy .13a right? what about the legend? you've sent that route without the kneebar and call it .12c or .13 b or whatever people call it right? what about plasma alliance at the tierrany wall? sent it without the kneebar and survey says .12c right? or rage at south clear creek, or anything at rifle? hmmm....

Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 12:36 am
by Guest
SCIN you need to change your name to SCIG - it's more appropriate.

Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 3:42 am
by SCIN
For one guys, it's shit like this that gives sport climbing a bad name in some people's opinion.

Also, the best climbers in the world (Francois LeGrand, Peter Croft, Ron Kauk,etc.) are complete pros at finding rests. That's one of the reasons they're the best at what they do.

Another thing...climbing tops out now at 5.15. Instead of wasting time calling out kneebars on some 5.13 why not set your focus away from that gay stuff and toward becoming better climbers? 5.13 or even 5.14 is a loooooooong way from 5.15. 5.13 is about 87% of 5.15. That's only a B. Why not try to be an A student? You all climb with Dave right? Watch his use of heel-hooks and learn some things. You guys are getting old and the clock is ticking (tick-tock-tick-tock).......

...or hell, why not get on some routes that spank you even when you use every rest you get? I know this may involve the humiliation of seeing a 16 year old kid straight out of the gym float up the route that you're falling on but suck it up! Be a man! Swallow your pride!

Man, what a bunch of fucking homos.

Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 4:40 am
by Steve
What bourbon you drinkin' tonite SCIN? MM here.

Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 4:47 am
by SCIN
Heaven Hill man!

Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2002 3:47 pm
by rmcfall
Dear Horatio, I think you're right. Now thinking about it, I have been a little one-sided about the kneebars. Also, I thin I'm gonna try and send tuskan raider with the hueco on next time i go to the darkside. Do you think you could teach me how to kneebar? Thanks in advance. by the way, the version of resurrectio i did with that kneebar is only .11 b.