Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:36 am
Has there been a consensus on Science Friction? I would vote against it being 5.12 b/c. The top 3/4 is a formality. On a postive note, it is just good clean fun.
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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:50 am
Nice job Eric! Hey, whatever you guys rate it, be weary and tolerant of people with big egos and less experience who will proclaim it easier than the grade. Even if you called it a 5.12a I'm sure somebody (who has probably climbed fewer 5.12's than you) will say that it is really 11d.
Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:51 am
Oh yeah, I climbed it and I thought it felt more like 10b. 
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 4:06 am
be weary and TOLERATE ME. Come on, it sounds to me like Eric and Goodguy were unsure about the grade. Hense, the 12b/12c. I PROCLAIM Science Friction easier than 12c(wild gift).
be weary and TOLERATE ME. I sent Wild Gift moments after I did Science Friction. Granted they are different angles.
J-Rock how experience were you when you got your grading license?
J-rock I do appreciate all your effort in Muir Valley. I have climbed fewer 5.12's than you.
*That is all I have to say. Not necessarily in that order.
be weary and TOLERATE ME. I sent Wild Gift moments after I did Science Friction. Granted they are different angles.
J-Rock how experience were you when you got your grading license?
J-rock I do appreciate all your effort in Muir Valley. I have climbed fewer 5.12's than you.
*That is all I have to say. Not necessarily in that order.
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:46 am
Damn JR, I tried to come up with a witty response, but I couldn't think of anything. You made some good points... I've just been really frustrated by so many different things lately and it's been starting to take the fun out of climbing. It seems that whatever I do lately there is always something wrong.
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 5:52 am
Damn JR, I tried to come up with a witty response, but I couldn't think of anything. You made some good points... I've just been really frustrated by so many different things concerning route development, work, life, etc. It seems that whatever I do lately there is always something wrong. It's been starting to take the fun out of climbing, relationships, etc. and I sometimes wonder if it is worth it. I think I'm starting to become a weary and intolerable person and it is beginning to worry me.
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:13 am
Soon those words will be mine as well. Soon. I don't think I have ever been so psyched on a route or problem as I am with wild gift. An inspiring line for sure.JR wrote:I sent Wild Gift...
Wes
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:18 am
J-Rock, Things get wierd for sure. Just remember - "This too, shall pass".
Wes
Wes
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:20 am
I hope so... 
By the way, good luck on "Wild Gift". Great route. For me it was like 5.11 to a V5 boulder problem with a sharp crystal to some steep 5.11 crimping with some long powerful moves at the end. I fell of the crux several times and a sharp crystal in a two finger pocket kept slicing my tip. It was fun though. I don't know if it still slices people (or maybe I was using the wrong hold).
By the way, good luck on "Wild Gift". Great route. For me it was like 5.11 to a V5 boulder problem with a sharp crystal to some steep 5.11 crimping with some long powerful moves at the end. I fell of the crux several times and a sharp crystal in a two finger pocket kept slicing my tip. It was fun though. I don't know if it still slices people (or maybe I was using the wrong hold).
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:57 pm
Now that's funny ... could you direct that at Pigsteak too?JR wrote:
J-Rock how experience were you when you got your grading license?
